Prakhar Lhakhang, also known as Trakar Lhakhang, or Prakhar Ngatshang, is a complex of temples and a mansion (ngatshang) in the Chume Valley of Bumthang Dzongkhag. It was founded by Tenpe Nyima, the grandson of Terton Pema Lingpa, with the help of white monkeys in the 16th century.
Later, a larger and more extravagant palace was built by Dasho Gonpo Dorji in the 1930s. The entire complex came to be known as Prakhar Ngatshang. It served as the seat of the lords of Chhume Valley.
Today, the Prakar complex is owned by the same noble family that built the temples. The temple organizes the annual Prakhar Duchhoed for three days, coinciding with the Jambay Lhakhang Drup.
How to Reach Prakhar Lhakhang
Trakar Lhakhang is located on a small plateau at the bend of the river. It is a 17-kilometer drive from Jakar Dzong. From the end of the road, Prakhar Lhakhang is just about a 10-minute walk. If you walk uphill for about 15 minutes, you will arrive at the Nimalung Monastery.
Sacred Relics to See at Trakar Lhakhang
- Statue of Sakyamuni;
- The eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche (Guru Tsengye);
- Statues of Terton Pema Lingpa;
- Kudung Chorten of Thugse Dawa Gyeltsen;
- Ancient chortens and murals;
- Paintings of the life of Padmasambhava;
- Masks made of papier-mache.
Historical Significance of Prakhar Lhakhang
Tenpe Nyima, the son of Thugse Dawa Gyeltshen, built Prakhar Lhakhang in the 16th century.
According to the history of Prakhar Lhakhang, the original three-story temple known as Zha Lhakhang was built by Tenpe Nyima, the son of Thugse Dawa Gyeltshen, in the 16th century.
Legend has it that Tenpe Nyima received a prophecy in his vision to build a temple in the lower Chhume Valley, where two rivers meet, near a black rock. As he built the temple during the day, it seemed to grow larger at night. It was discovered that the white monkeys were working on the temple after dark. Therefore, the temple was named Prakhar Lhakhang, meaning “the temple of white monkeys”.
Later in the 1930s, a larger and more extravagant building was built by Dasho Gonpo Dorji, the then Lord of Chhume and a descendant of Terton Pema Lingpa. Thus, the complex was named Prakhar Palace or Prakhar Ngatshang.
Today, the entire complex is known by various names, including Prakar Lhakhang, Prakhar Goemba, Trakar Lhakhang, or Prakhar Ngatshang (also known as Prakhar Palace).
Description of Trakar Lhakhang
The main relic of Prakhar Lhakhang is a statue of Sakyamuni Buddha and the Kudung of Thugse Dawa Gyeltshen.
Today, Prakhar Ngatshang consists of two buildings. The first structure is the original 16th-century temple, built by Nyima, known as the Zha Lhakhang. It exemplifies the typical ancient Bhutanese style, characterized by a square shape, which utilizes traditional skills in the construction of mud, stone, and wood.
Zha Lhakhang has three floors. The ground floor features a statue of Sakyamuni, crafted by Nepalese artists, while the middle floor showcases statues of Guru Tsengye and the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. The top floor is adorned with ancient chortens and murals as old as the temple itself. It also features artwork depicting Pema Lingpa.
The second structure is a larger and more extravagant palace known as Prakhar Ngatshang, built by Dasho Gonpo Dorji in the 1930s. This Ngatshang has the architectural style of palaces from the first half of the 20th century, built in Bumthang and Trongsa. It features living quarters and a central tower (utse), which houses two temples. The larger temple features exquisite murals depicting the teaching cycles of Guru Padmasambhava.
Next to the Ngatshang is a shrine housing a chorten (Thuksey Dawai Kudung) where the body of Tenpe Nyima’s father, Thugse Dawa Gyeltsen, was entombed. This room also features exquisite wall paintings restored by Ashi Phuntsho Choden, the Queen of the Second King.
Festival of Prakhar Lhakhang
Prakhar Duchhoed is a 3-day annual festival held in Prakhar Lhakhang from the 16th to the 18th of the ninth month of the Bhutanese calendar. The festival commemorates Thugse Dawa Gyeltshen’s death anniversary. The monks from Nimalung Dratshang perform the mask dances and traditional songs. On the final night of the Tshechu, people receive the blessing (Kudra Wang) of Thukse Dawa Gyeltshen.
Best Time to Visit Prakhar Lhakhang
The best time to visit Prakhar Lhakhang in Bumthang is during the annual Prakhar Duchhoed festival.
Conclusion
Prakhar Lhakhang, also known as Prakhar Ngatshang, is a complex of temples and a palace. It was established in the 16th century by Tenpe Nyima, with the assistance of white monkeys in the Chume Valley of Bumthang Dzongkhag. Today, the temple complex remains under the ownership of the same noble family that built the initial temples, and it is renowned for the annual Trakar Duchoed, which commemorates the death anniversary of Thugse Dawa Gyeltshen.
Places to Explore in Bumthang
Bumthang Dzongkhag is rich in culture and steeped in legends. Here are a few pilgrimage sites near Tharpaling Monastery:
Choedrak Monastery: Choedrak Monastery, a Buddhist monastery in Bhutan, is situated at an elevation of 3,800 meters, overlooking the Chumey Valley.
Kurjey Lhakhang: One of Bhutan’s most sacred temples, believed to house a body print of Guru Rinpoche.
Jambay Lhakhang: One of the oldest temples in Bhutan, dating back to the 7th century, and famous for its annual festivals.
Mebar Tsho: Mebar Tsho is a sacred lake in Bhutan, renowned as the site where Terton Pema Lingpa discovered hidden treasures of Guru Rinpoche in 1475.
Jakar Dzong: Known as the “Castle of the White Bird”, this impressive fortress overlooks the town of Jakar and offers stunning views of the valley.
Tamzhing Lhakhang: The temple was founded in 1501 and is renowned for its rich collection of ancient Buddhist art and relics.
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