Hungrel Dzong is a fortress built on the sacred site of Guru Rinpoche in the Paro Dzongkhag at 2364 meters. The Dzong was constructed by Drung Drung Gyelchog (Lama Drung Drung Gyal or Pha Drung Drung Rinpoche) in the 15th century. It was a five-story structure, built of compact mud, and resembled Namgyal Khangzang. Inside, it resembled the “Palace of Gods“.
Though we can’t see the original Hungrel Dzong, the Rinchen Pung Dzong, which means “Fortress on a Heap of Jewels” constructed at the Hungrel Dzong site, is considered sacred, as the Hungrel Dzong itself. This Rinpung Dzong was built by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1645 AD. It’s popularly known as Paro Rinpung Dzong or simply Paro Dzong.
Hungrel Ney is one of the three sacred sites of Guru Rinpoche, where he imprinted a sacred letter “Hung”.
Also Read: The Three Sacred Sites of Guru Rinpoche which form the Buddhist Mantra, “Om Ah Hung”
How to Reach Hungrel Gyem Lhakhang
Hungrel Gyem Lhakhang is located on the other side of the Pa Chhu River from the main road of Paro Town. It takes only 15 minutes on foot from Paro Town. To enter the Hungrel Dzong or Paro Rinpung Dzong, one must cross the traditional wooden cantilever bridge over the Paro River. After crossing the bridge, descend from the Dzong following the stone-steps route to reach Hungrel Gyem Lhakhang.
Paro Dzong is 54 km away from the capital of Bhutan, Thimphu.
Historical Significance of Hungrel Dzong
According to legend, the Hungrel was visited by Guru Rimpoche in the 8th century. He named it “Rinpung Drak” (i.e., “cliff of the heap of jewels”), from which the dzong got its current name. History comes into sharper focus in the 15th century with the arrival of Gyelchog, the eldest son of Damtrul Loden Gyalpo, Phajo Drugom Zhigpo’s fourth straight ancestor.
He settled in Paro Tshongdu crematorium after his brother denied him a return to his seat. While meditating, a deity living across a river beneath a cliff tried to distract him. However, Drung Drung subdued the deity and named him Hungrel Goenpo, the protector of Buddhism.
The deity Hungrel Goenpo offered his cliff and requested Drung Drung Gyelchog to establish his seat by building a small hut atop the cliff.
Drung Drung Gyelchog established his seat and settled there. However, the regular conflicts among various lineage holders of religious traditions within the Paro valleys have saddened him. So, he made up his mind to go back to Tibet. When his patrons learned of his plan, they begged him, stating that if a lama of his stature and accomplishment resided in Hungrel Drag, all the people of Paro Valleys would become his major patrons. They urged him to stay in the area and to establish a permanent settlement at Hungrel Drak.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche’s Visits to Bhutan and His Sacred Sites
Hungrel Dzong
After considering the appropriateness of the place, Hungrel Drung Drung decided to establish a permanent seat at Hungrelkha and serve as the lama of the people of Paro. The lama quickly convened all his sponsors on an auspicious day, and the foundation for a five-story Hungrel Dzong was set. Hungrel Drung Drung is said to have carried out the work of 30 persons. He brought the required wooden structures sliding down naturally without requiring the people to get them.
Thus, a five-storied Dzong of compact mud was completed quickly. The Dzong was said to have a granary on the ground floor, an assembly hall on the first floor, residential apartments on the second floor, Gyenkhang on the third floor, and the shrine room on the fourth floor. The Dzong was named Hungrel Dzong, and the place Hungrelkha.
Hungrel Dzong, as it was known, referred to the cliff’s alternative name, Hungrel Drak, bestowed by Thangtong Gyalpo, the “King of the Empty Plain.” He is credited with temporarily driving the deity out of the cliff by uttering “Hung.”
Rinpung Dzong, the Fortress on a Heap of Jewels
Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal visited Paro to build a Dzong in the 17th century. The descendants of Hungrel Drung Drung residing at Druk Choeding made a courtesy call on Zhabdrung Rinpoche. During the meeting, they offered the Hungrel Dzong to Zhabdrung Rinpoche asking him not to look for any other site to build the Dzong.
Zhabdrung Rinpoche then dismantled the Hungrel Dzong and rebuilt it with the help of the first Paro Penlop La Nangpa Tenzin Drukdra in 1645 A.D. However, since Guru Padmasambhava had named the cliff Rinpung Drag in the 8th century, Zhabdrung renamed the dzong Rinchen Pung Dzong, which means “Fortress on a Heap of Jewels”.
In 1897 a major earthquake damaged the structure, and Paro Penlop Kuju Tshering Penjor rebuilt it. Again later, it was razed down by a fire in 1905. Repairs by Tshering Penjor and Dawa Penjor were largely completed by 1908 or 1909. The most important object within the dzong, the Thondrol Thangka, a 20 x 20-meter painting on cloth or silk, was fortunately saved, and can still be seen during the Paro Tshechu festival. The festival is held five days from the 11th to the 15th day of the second month of the Bhutanese lunar calendar.
One must visit in person to glimpse traditional Bhutanese fortresses’ architectural design and beauty. No description would suffice for the historical and cultural importance of the Dzong.
Description of Hungrel Ney
The Hungrel Ney is located just below the present-day Paro Rinpung Dzong known as the Paro Dzong.
The historical site has a Goenkhang of Bjawog Nyap or Jowo Nep (Hungrel Goenpo). This Hungrel Gyem Lhakhang is built against the Hungrel drag (cliff) and hosts Guru Sungjoenma as the main relic. And just below the Goenkhang are two holy waters (Drupchhu), namely Jowo Drubchhu and Hungrel Drubchhu. These Drubchhus are believed to cleanse all our impurities (drip).
Also Read: Drupchhu or Holy Spring Waters in Bhutan: Beliefs and Benefits
The Hungrel Ney still has the sacred word “Hung”. Thus, people consider Omba Ney in Trashi Yangtse, Aja Ney in Monggar, and Hungrel Ney in Paro as the three equally sacred sites attributed to Guru Rinpoche since their names begin with the letters, Om, Ah, and Hung, which form the Buddhist Mantra, “Om Ah Hung.” Therefore, many pilgrims visit these sites at least once chronologically.
Also Read: “Om Ah Hung” Ney of Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan
Best Time to Visit Hungrel Dzong
There is no best time to visit Paro Dzong. You can visit any time of the season. However, if you want to see the grand event at the Dzong, we recommend visiting the Dzong during the festive season. The festival season is from the 11th to the 15th day of the second month of the Bhutanese calendar, where the Rinpung Dzong hosts a grand annual festival known as Tshechu (usually in March or April of the Gregorian calendar).
Frequently Asked Questions
When was Hungrel Dzong built?
Hungrel Dzong was built in the 15th century.
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