Bumdrak is a sacred cliff of Guru Rinpoche at an altitude of 3500 masl where Dakinis – Goddess of the Fairies are said to have left 100,000 footprints in Tsento Gewog under Paro Dzongkhag.
You will see numerous sacred caves of Bumdra, where a hundred thousand Dakinis (angels) descended on a cave 800 years ago and left their footprints on the rocks. While on Bumdra Trek, you will also be visiting Taktsang Monastery, one of Bhutan’s most revered Buddhist pilgrimage sites in Bhutan.
Sacred Relics to See at Bumdrak
- The cave where Dakinis – Goddess of the Fairies – is said to have left 100,000 footprints;
- Ancient Bumdra sky burial sites;
- Guru Rinpoche’s Uhzha;
- Dorji Phagmo’s holy water below the temple;
- Drilbu Dra, a cliff resembling a Drilbu;
- Khandro’s secret path (Sanglam);
- Bumdrak Monastery;
- Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
The Trek to Bumdrak Monastery
Also known as the “Trek of the Thousand Dakinis” (celestial female beings), the Bumdra trek in Paro is a favorite pilgrimage trek in Bhutan. It is one of Bhutan’s most popular pilgrimage treks requiring only one night of wild camping. The Bumdra trek is a two-day trek with a distance of 22 km. The Bumdrak, which Guru Rimpoche blessed in the 8th century, inspires this religious trek to Bumdra.
Trek cost and Bumdra camp price varies depending on your tour operators. Please get in touch with Bumdra Camp at 17162455/17612487 for booking.
There are also a few route options for the trek to Bumdra. You can start the trek from Shari Village, Taktshang, or Sangchoekor Monastery. Here’s the brief itinerary for the pilgrimage trek to Bumdra monastery.
Also Read: Tiger’s Nest Trek
Day 1: Sangchhoekor to Bumdrak Monastery
Distance: 7 km
Time: 3-4 hours
Ascent: Ascent 960 m
Camp Altitude: 3,500 m
Our adventure started with a drive up to the Sangchen Choekhor in the morning, where we paid a brief visit and got blessings for a safe trek ahead. We started our hike from the parking lot and followed the trail to the left, where we met with a heartbreaking scene of a burnt landscape destroyed by a major forest fire in February 2018.
We kept climbing and eventually got lost in a forestry ridge of blue pine woven by oak and rhododendron, where Bhutan’s untouched nature can be seen in all its glory, as we eagerly anticipated the mythology of Bhutanese history, tradition, and culture at 3800 meters above sea level. The initial climb of a steep ridge was difficult at times, but we were aided by cool shades all along the way. A Yak Pasture with prayer flags was a welcome sight, providing a breathtaking view of the Paro and Do Chhu valleys. These prayer flags are popular in Bhutan and can be found almost anywhere.
We arrived at Choechotse Lhakhang (temple), nestled on the side of the mountain, after 2 hours of trekking. We had a brief visit to the temple. The Denpa statue inside the temple is said to have once rescued the valley from a measles outbreak. The murals, according to the caretaker, are 700 years old. We had lunch on the wooden seats near the Lhakhang, which has excellent views down the Paro Valley.
After lunch, the trail steadily ascended, and when we crossed the last steep elevation, we were rewarded with the views of Paro International Airport and the snow-capped Himalayas.
We descended for about 40 minutes through a charming forest of larch, silver fir, and juniper before reaching a vast meadow with sacred Chortens and prayer flags, the only sign of human influence in the untouched landscape, after another 20 minutes of climbing through ruins and fluttering prayer flags. We lingered briefly, taking in the scenery and erecting our prayer flags.
Bumdra Campsite
The semi-permanent camping spot is near the trip’s first temple, the Bumdra Monastery. Bumdra monastery’s beauty and surroundings are best appreciated in person, as words can only convey a sliver of its splendor.
Dinner was ready when we returned from Namgo La– a small reward after the first day of our trekking vacation. We stayed on a tented campsite at Bumdra Monastery (the Cave of a Thousand Prayers). Bumdra’s camping facilities are the most comfortable camp in Bhutan, with sun loungers, gas heaters, and wooden beds. The trek can include the luxury of a bed or plain sleeping bags, depending on your preferences, providing a unique perspective on the whole trip.
Warm clothing and a torch (flashlight) are two things you should carry in your backpack while trekking here (or almost anywhere in Bhutan). The experience is one to remember with family and friends as the cold winds buffet the tent and everyone huddles around the campfire with hot food, creating a lasting memory.
Our memories of having our favorite drinks and listening to music were left behind until the next time. When nothing but the prayers reverberate through the night, accompanied by sweet chirps of unseen insects and birds, glamping in the wild is incredibly relaxing.
Day 2: Bumdrak Monastery to Ramthangkha
Distance: 15 km
Time: 5-6 hours
Descent: 1260 m
Good Morning! It’s time to leave the place and buy memories. We returned to the valley after spending a memorable night. After a hearty breakfast in the jaw-dropping scenery, we returned to the ancient pine and rhododendron forest on the monks’ zigzag trail.
It’s a one-hour downhill walk from Bumdra to Yoeselgang, the ‘Shining Summit,’ at 3300m, through lichen-draped larch and silver pines. We went to the assembly hall with a lovely woodblock print of Guru Rinpoche’s eight manifestations. After another 10 minutes, we arrived at Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang (3300m), followed by Zangdo Pelri Lhakhang (3280m). You must visit all of the Lhakhang if you are religious and have the time. Being a Bhutanese who never wants to miss anything adds to the lure of visiting sacred spiritual sites. Our hearts were overflowing with as much sanctity as we could muster for all of them.
After a 2-hour descent back into Paro Valley, the golden roofs of the great Monastery of Taktsang are visible, signaling the end of the Bumdra trek.
A steep shortcut route to Taktsang via the Machig-Phu Lhakhang runs between Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang and Zangto Pelri Lhakhang. After an hour, we arrived at the gates of Taktsang, with a view across the gorge, a steep descent to a waterfall, and a step-by-step climb to the Tiger’s Nest itself. It’s 90 minutes downhill to the Ramthangkha parking lot after visiting Taktsang. We had lunch at the cafeteria as we ended our favorite trek, the trek of the thousand Dakinis.
Historical Significance of Bumdra
The history of Bumdra is deeply rooted in Buddhist mythology and legends. Guru Rinpoche predicted that a sacred place called Bumdra would be founded in Bhutan. He said this place would be as holy as the cremation ground in India where Buddha’s relics are kept.
In the 8th century, Guru Padmasambhava and Khandro Yeshey Tshogyel came to the site and meditated there. It is said that Khandro Yehsey Tshogyel could represent 100 thousand Dakinis through her miraculous ability. Guru commanded all the Dakinis to demonstrate their existence and divinity. In response, 100,000 Dakinis left their right leg impressions on the cliff, which can still be seen today.
Guru from Gyem Jango in Drukgyal discovered Bumdra in the 13th century. Zhabdrung also blessed Bumdra in the 17th century.
Description of Bumdrak
When you reach Bumdra, on the front of the Temple, adjacent to the two Chortens is Khandro’s leisure ground (Khandro Pangcho). It is believed that dancing on the ground would please the Gods and spirits. Below the temple, you will see the 100 thousand footprints and Dorji Phagmo’s holy water.
Further left to the Temple is Drupchhu, which has two sources: Phochu-Mochu. These Drupchhus are water sources for both the temple and the campsite.
Also Read: Drupchhu or Holy Spring Waters in Bhutan: Beliefs and Benefits
To the temple’s right is Drilbu Dra, a cliff resembling a Drilbu. Right below the Dra is Bumdra Rinpoche’s retreat house. Next to the Drilbudra is a drain-like canyon, said to be Khandro’s secret path (Sanglam) used during the retreat.
Dhuthroe (cremation site) at Bumdra
The sky burial site is at the top of the ridge above Bumdra Monastery. Hike up for about 30-40 minutes from the campsite to reach Namgo La (the Pass as high as the sky). On the mountaintop, there are three ancient sky burial sites. The practice of placing a human corpse on a mountaintop to be eaten by scavenging animals, especially vultures, is known as sky burial, but it is no longer practiced.
The first cremation site you reach is the Third cremation ground (Duethroe Sumpa). The chronological order of Cremation grounds is the opposite. You reach the third cremation site first and the first cremation site last.
As you go to the first cremation site, you will come across a rock resembling a hat, said to be Guru Rinpoche’s Uzha, and a small meditation cave. One can witness droplets of holy water drizzle down the rock if one has a deep faith in Buddhism.
After Guru Uzha, as you move further up, the Second cremation site is Duethri Nyipa. Reaching these sky burial sites can be difficult as no proper trails exist.
The beak of the peak at around 4300 meters, is the First cremation ground, Duethri Dangpa. There is one stretch where you must glide the path onto rocks while nearing the first cremation site.
A stupa can be found near these sky burials. You cut a strand of hair and burn it here. You can also take Buddha’s Parinirvana position as you lay on these cremation grounds. The Buddha’s Parinirvana position is described as lying on his right side and supporting his head with his right hand, known as Mahaparinirvasana.
At sunset, it’s a wonderful place to be. Sunset views of the Haa Valley and Sikkim beyond are spectacular. We also had a breathtaking view of Mt Jhomolhari, a sacred mountain of the Goddess Aum Jomo.
One could also take a different path from the campsite’s right, which is lengthy but easy. Hike to the Duethri Dangpa first and loop down through the other two.
History of Bumdrak Monastery
In the 17th century, Zhabdrung visited Bumdra and ordered Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye to build a monastery. Accordingly, the Gyalsey assigned lam Drapa Jamtso to initiate the construction of the Bumdrak monastery. However, Lam Drapa Jamtso could not lay the temple’s foundation as the work progresses in the day are brought down to the ground by natural occurrences or evil spirits by night. The monastery could only be built when Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye pinned his hair with the stones.
Bumdrak monastery is a small temple with colorful wall hanging, old paintings protected with yellow mentsi curtains, and Thangkas. In the corner of the shrine, we can see the actual rock where Dakinis – Goddess of the Fairies – is said to have left 100,000 footprints. The main relic of Bumdra is a statue of Dorje Phagmo, an emanation of Guru Rinpoche‘s consort Yeshe Tsogyel, and other statues of other great teachers.
Best Time for Bumdra Trekking
Depending on the trekking area you want, you can trekking any time of year. Trekking is possible even during the summer but is not recommended because the weather can be unpredictable and change without warning. However, the best time to trek in Bhutan is from late September to the end of May.
What to Pack for Bumdra Trekking?
What things to bring for the Bumdra trek is determined by the time of year. Although some items are required, such as sturdy hiking boots, waterproofs in case of rain, and a hat and jacket, warm clothing is unlikely to be needed if you are trekking during the summer months.
The necessary items to pack for the trek are all basic. A walking stick, comfortable shoes, sunglasses, and sunscreen lotion are all recommended to protect you from high altitude. A cap and a good pair of socks will help you start and finish the trek.
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