Domtsang Ney is a meditative cave of Guru Rinpoche located at Bjemina, around 25 km from the capital city, Thimphu en route to Tshelung Ney and Jagar Damkelsa Ney.
How to Reach Dom Tshang Nye
From Thimphu one needs to travel toward Chudzom on a Thimphu-Phuntsholing national highway. Take a diversion from Khasadrapchu towards Gidakom Hospital and keep moving. Driving through the narrow Bjemina valley roads tasseled with houses and golden paddy fields, the journey will be breathtaking. Stop at the forest depot where you will see so many logs just after crossing the conventional (wooden) bridge.
The Domtshang Nye can also be reached and visited while returning from your pilgrimage to Tshelung Ney. You can also make time to visit Jagar Damkelsa Ney which is just nearby the Dom Tshang Nye.
Sacred Relics to See at Domtsang Ney
- Meditative Cave of Guru;
- Drubchhu (holy water) from a mini cave right near the road point;
- Footprint (Zhabjay) of Guru Rinpoche;
- Stone Bell hanging from the cliff;
- Self-emanated word “Aa”;
- Guru Rinpoche’s Soelthab (the Sacred Hearth);
- The sacred eye of wisdom (Yeshipai chhen).
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Domtsang Ney
Domtsang Ney is one of the many sacred pilgrimage sites blessed by Guru Rinpoche on his third visit to Bhutan in 876 A.D. It is a site of hidden blessings for all of us.
When it comes to the derivation of the name of the Ney, there are many anecdotes with their version describing why the Ney is called Domtsang. I’m not here to mislead religious saints or devotees with wrong information. One must get the background history right yourself.
I’m here only to narrate the sources I heard (which may not be written anywhere) from people around me. One such is, Guru Rimpoche, who came riding a bear, meditated in, and blessed the cave. Thus, the Ney is called Domtsang, meaning “Bear’s Den”. Another story believes that Guru Padmasambhava subdued the Beast Bear that resided in the cave and terrorized the locales.
Description of Domtsang Ney
The pious pilgrimage starts as one walks upward for 15-20 minutes through the narrow path shadowed by the thick flora Bhutan boasts of. Climbing up a while, you can find an imprint of a tortoise and a vulture.
As one climbs further up through a zigzag path, before one reaches the main cave, one can see the footprint (Zhabjay) left by Guru Rinpoche for the benefit of all sentient beings.
As one ascends, one can see Guru Rinpoche’s Soelthab(the Sacred Hearth).
Upon reaching the sacred Ney, one can find a new butter lamp-offering house built near the base of a holy cliff cave. A metallic ladder perched on the cave is meticulously nestled in the middle of the rocky cliff. Before, there was a shaky wooden ladder dangerously stationed toward the cave. Thanks to generous patrons from Bjemina, now we can be safe while climbing up to the cave nestled perilously.
A Stone Bell (choe drill) hangs from the cliff near the cave. One can ring (hit) the bell with a long stick (as it’s a bit far from a human’s height) and hear the unique sound of a bell echoing through our hearts generating the prayers of Guru Rinpoche on our lips. There is also a Dorjee.
The Sacred Cave
Taking off shoes, one can proceed through the Sacred Cave cautiously taking care of one’s head (the entry point is quite narrow). Inside, the cave is wide but dark, only lighted by the flames of butter lamps offered by the patrons and pilgrims (one must be aware of the smoke inside, especially during auspicious days when so many people come with lighted incense sticks and place in the cave).
The huge sacred cave with the greatest artistic sculptures is astounding. That’s the shocking cave where one can find solace and prayers out of one’s heart. One can also find a statue of Guru Rinpoche installed (very recently) by the same loyal patron from Bjemina.
After one offers one’s offerings, one can prostrate for the well-being of all sentient beings. That’s the place one submits before Guru Rinpoche and pays reverence. One of the most prayer-generating treasures is the self-emanated word “Aa.”
The sacred site doesn’t end here, but one needs to be physically active (though many old pilgrims with religiously sprouted guts visit) and a torch or mobile flashlight to descend from the main cave and squeeze down through the narrow passage within the cave. One can get blessings from Guru Rinpoche’s sacred eye of wisdom (Yeshipai chhen). One can also find a garuda on the cliff.
As one return, don’t forget to take the Drubchhu (holy water) from a mini cave at the base of Domtshang Nye.
The Ney is indeed a real hidden blessing of Guru Rinpoche. The shocking evidence left by the Guru itself is a source to revere the Ney and seek blessings. It’s however, at such a time when one seeks evidence and doesn’t believe blindly, it’s everyone’s responsibility to propagate the importance of our sacred legacy of Guru Rinpoche by understanding the history of holy sites throughout Bhutan, not just the Domtshang Ney.
Best Time to Visit Domtsang Ney
Though pilgrimage to sacred places can’t have an ideal time, people choose according to the season and their convenience. Therefore, I recommend visiting Guru Rinpoche’s meditative cave while returning from Tshelung Ney.
Pro Tip: Most people who visit Tshelung Ney, visit Domtshang Ney since it’s right on the way. You can also pay a brief visit to Jagar Damkelsa Ney on the way to Chimithangka and Khandro Nye.
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