Punakha Dromche, also known as Punakha Drubchen, is a unique festival in Bhutan that dramatically re-enacts a 17th-century battle. The festival celebrates victory and pays homage to Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel and the people who came forward to fight against the invading Tibetan forces. It is held annually for three days starting on the 9th day of the 1st month of the Bhutanese calendar.
During the Punakha Drubchen, the Pazaps, dressed in full military gear, including red and black attire and swords, recreate scenes from the 17th-century battle between Bhutan and Tibet. Then, the central monastic body demonstrates a ceremony of Norbu Chushani or immersion of the sacred relic Rangjung Kharsapani into the Mochu River.
It is one of the two most popular festivals held in the beautiful courtyard of the stunning Punakha Dzong fortress every year. The other is the Punakha Tshechu festival, which is celebrated immediately after Dromchoe. Punakha is only accessible by road and is roughly three hours from Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. The closest airport for tourists is Paro International Airport, which is approximately four hours away.
History of Punakha Dromche
The history of Punakha Dromche or Punakha Drubchen dates back to the time of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. During the 17th century, Bhutan was invaded several times by the Tibetan forces after Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel fled Tibet and came to Bhutan with the sacred relic, Rangjung Kharsapani. The attack was intended to capture the Zhabdrung and recover the relic.
The Tibetan invaders awaited the ideal opportunity by hiding and observing from Jili Gang, a hill above the Punakha cremation ground. Zhabdrung ordered his Pazaps to exit from one gate and enter from the other, once in the morning and once in the evening, to trick them that many soldiers were stationed inside the Dzong.
Later, Zhabdrung knowing that the Tibetan invaders wouldn’t leave without the sacred relic, staged a fake ceremony of the immersion of the relic, Rangjung Kharsapani into Mochu to fool the invaders. He walked to a big tree beside the Mo Chhu River bank and dropped the relic into the river, making the Tibetan invaders believe that he had thrown the relic into the river. The deceived Tibetans returned home thinking there was no reason to battle with the Bhutanese because the sacred relic was lost in the river. However, Zhabdrung didn’t throw the actual relic into the river. Instead, he threw a replica into the river and concealed the original in his sleeve.
Thus, to commemorate this occasion, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel introduced Puna Drubchen, also known as Punakha Dromche. Since then, Punakha Drubchen has become the annual festival of Punakha Dzongkhag.
Significance of Punakha Dromche
Punakha Drubchen is one of Bhutan’s biggest and most significant festivals, witnessed by thousands of people. Punakha Domchhen Festival is celebrated to honor the victory in a great fight against the invading Tibetan army led by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in the 17th century. This festival also pays tribute to the villagers from eight great villages or ‘Wang Tshochen Gey’ of Thimphu and Punakha who came forward to drive the invading Tibetan army out of Bhutan.
Punakha Dromche
Punakha Dromche is a three-day festival dedicated to Yeshe Gompo and Palden Lhamo, Bhutan’s two protective deities. The nation’s sacred relic, Rangjung Kharsapani, is displayed during the festival.
The festival enacts a historic battle between Bhutanese and Tibetan invaders. During the three-day festival, the Pazaps recreate battle scenes and the ceremony of Rangjung Kharsapani’s immersion into Mochu.
On the final day, a huge copper bowl inscribed with scriptures is dragged into the courtyard’s center. The bowl is then filled to the brim with alcohol, which is blessed and distributed to the people attending the Dromche.
Punakha Drubchen Procession
Following the seven days of the Sachog ritual for the Goempai Wangchen, the annual Lhatai Sungchoe is conducted. Then the Chamjug, dress rehearsal is done, following the Thrue for the Chamjug. 136 Pazaps, which include Zimpons/Magpons, or generals, and eight Gups from Wang Tsochengye assemble at the Punakha dzong one day before Dromche to establish camps and to take a ritual bath near the Mo Chhu River.
During the festival, Pazaps wear red fabric folded like a Gho with a black jacket and a red and white panels scarf called Khamar Kabney. They also wear a hefty iron helmet with flags, a Patang or sword, and traditional boots Tshoglham. The Zimpon wear the best war attire, which consists of a Gho with patterns, a white skirt, and scarves of five different colors known as Dhar Nyenga woven across their chests, while the gups wear red robes of the monk as the representatives of Zhabdrung.
On the first day of Dromche, after the Zhugdrel Phunsum Tshogpa and Marchang ceremonies, His Holiness the Je Khenpo, the representative of the Zhabdrung, reads out the Zhabdrung’s edict to the Pazaps: “I have placed my trust in the people of Wang Tshochen Gey, and together we have to defeat the enemies from Tibet through craft and shrewdness.”
On the second day, the Pazaps get up early and go around Punakha Dzong three times before gathering at the lake. Then, the Zimpon demonstrates how to combat the Tibetan invaders through songs and dances.
Punakha Dromche ends with Serda, a magnificent procession that reenacts an episode of the 17th-century war against the invading Tibetans. In addition to reenacting the battle scenes, a Norbu Chushani demonstration—in which a relic is thrown in the Mo Chhu River—is also presented.
Enactment of a 17th-century battle between the Bhutanese and Tibetans
On the last day, eight Pazaps perform a ceremony in the courtyard before the Je Khenpo. Meanwhile, four of the eight Zimpons perform be cham at the Kabgon, where Zhabdrung had his quarters, offering their promises to defeat the enemies. The Pazaps then leave the dzong in groups, shouting battle cries. The eight generals ride their horses and exit through two doorways, one at the front and one at the rear. They take up positions around the dzong in four different directions.
Meanwhile, the Pazaps continue to enter through the front entrance, leave through the rear door, and re-enter through the front door in what appears to be a never-ending parade. In the 17th century, Zhabdrung used this trick to make the Tibetans believe that a huge army awaited them to fight.
Norbu Chushani or Immersion of the Sacred Relic Rangjung Kharsapani into the Mochu River
Hundreds of monks wearing high red caps depart the Punakha Dzong complex in a religious procession accompanied by drums and trumpets. The procession stops at the Mo River bank, where Je Khenpo, wearing a black hat and an apron decorated with the fearsome head of Yeshey Gonpo, performs the Luu chok and throws a handful of oranges into the Mo River symbolizing the precious relic, Rangjung Kharsapani.
The Pazaps triumphantly return after the relic is symbolically submerged. The day of victory concludes with celebrations as the Zimpons are triumphantly taken up the stairs into the courtyard from the base of the stairway that leads into the dzong after being hauled off their horses.
In the courtyard, the Zimpons once more perform be cham in front of the Je Khenpo, and Pazaps receive a command from Gyalpo Sungkhorp.
Conclusion
Punakha Drubchen, or Punakha Dromche, is a three-day festival commemorating the 17th-century victory over Tibetan armies. Held annually, it pays homage to Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel and the people who fought against the invading forces. The Pazaps, dressed in full military gear, recreate battle scenes and perform Norbu Chushani, a ceremony of immersing the sacred relic Rangjung Kharsapani in the Mochu River. This festival is followed by the annual Punakha Tshechu festival, which lasts three days.
