Tumdra Ami Ney is a chief abode of wish-granting goddess Lhamo Ekajati located in Darla Gewog under Chhukha Dzongkhag in Bhutan. Guru Rinpoche blessed the sacred site in the 8th century.
Thangthong Gyalpo discovered the Tumdra Ami Ney and later Terton Drukdra Dorji also spent a few years meditating and discovering “Ters” from the Ney in the eighteenth century.
This sacred site is also known as the Lhamo Ekajati Ney or Aum Kangchema Ney. In Passa Tumdra Ami Ney, Lhamo Ekajati unifies the hearts of Hindus and Buddhists and brings together the minds of Indians and Bhutanese.
How to Reach Tumdra Ami Ney/ Lhamo Ekajati Ney/ Aum Kangchim Ney
Since Tumdra Ami Nye is located on the border between Bhutan and India, people travel via Hasimara and Kalchini, an Indian town in West Bengal. You don’t need any permits to visit the sacred site. From Phuentsholing Town, you must drive 60 km through the Indian border via Jaigaon until you reach the small Indian town of Jaintey. From there you must drive another 5 km through the riverbed until you reach the entrance gate of the Ney. It takes nearly two hours from Phuentshogling to reach Tumdra Ney.
Tumdra Ami Ney Hike: From the base of the Ney, you should hike up a slope for 20 minutes to reach Ekajati Lhakhang in Bhutan. The hike distance is 2 km and is considered easy on difficulty level.
The site is also said to be accessible on foot from Shachaphu which is hours of walk into thick forest, but not many people choose to walk.
Sacred Relics to See at Passa Tumdra Ami Ney/Ekajati Ney
- The full body print of Aum Kangchim can be seen on the rock;
- Dhuthrey which is believed to be one of the most sacred cremation grounds out of the eight holy Dhuthreys around the world;
- 100,000 Dakini’s footprints on big boulders;
- Ekajati Lhakhang.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Tumdra Ami Ney/ Lhamo Ekajati Ney
The Ney is believed to have been visited by Guru Padmasambhava and was later discovered by Thangthong Gyalpo. It is said that Terton Drukdra Dorji also spent a few years meditating at the Ney.
The Ney comprises many holy saints’ contributions including Jetsen Drelma, Guru Rimpoche, and Thang Thong Gyalpo. However, the important part of the Ney by its name is the Nye of Aum A KA ZA TI or Aum Kangchim. Aum Kangchim is believed to be a god of wealth and grants blessings of wealth and happiness. The Aum Kangchim or Lhamo Ekajati has a unique look and is depicted with a single breast, one leg, one eye below her forehead, and a single hair.
According to the legend, Terton Drukdra Dorji revealed and discovered a relic (Ter) of Aum Kangchim’s statue from the Ney. This statue of Lhamo Ekajati is the main relic of Dokhachu Goenpa located under Chapcha Gewog of Chhukha Dzongkhag. Therefore, Aum Kangchim is the goddess of Chapcha.
According to the biography of Drupthop ThangThong Gyalpo who opened the current Tumdra Ami Ney, the Dhuthrey or the cremation ground at the sacred site is believed to be one of the holiest cremation grounds out of the eight sacred Dhuthreys around the world.
From the Hindu point of view, the Ney is a holy place of Goddess Saraswati (Lhamo Yangchen Lhamo), Chumo Ganga (Matey Ganga), and Tshodha Langpo. That is why thousands of people from across the border visit the holy site annually during their holy event called Maha Shivrastri.
The Ney is also considered the place from where hell and heaven’s ways are directed.
Description of Aum Kangchim Ney
The Ney is inside the cliff, devotees have to walk through a narrow path, climb steep steps, and cross the river.
The full body print of Aum Kangchim can be seen on the rock. The other important part of Tumdra Amey Ney is the Dhuthrey. This cremation ground is considered one of the most sacred out of the eight sacred Dhuthreys worldwide. Another attraction is a hundred-thousand Dakini’s footprints on big boulders.
Ekajati Lhakhang in Bhutan
There is also an Ekajati Lhakhang at Tumdra Ney in Passakha. The Royal Grandmother, Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuk sponsored the construction of the Ekajati Lhakhang. One lama has been appointed at the Ney through Chhukha Rabdey and all the basic requirements of infrastructures for the Lam are constructed by Chhukha Dzongkhag Administration.
Best Time to Visit Tumdra Ami Ney/ Lhamo Ekajati Ney/ Aum Kangchim Ney
The journey towards the Ney is dangerous and there were reports of casualties in the past. The visitors must ensure safety precautions. The best time to visit Tumdra Ami Ney/ Lhamo Ekajati Ney/ Aum Kangchim Ney is during the winter season. It remains inaccessible during the monsoon. Also, the place is cut off from the mobile network.
The proper route to Passa Tumdra Ami Ney in Chhukha is a major challenge. This sacred site has no road connections from within the country. However, this issue will soon be addressed with the construction of a road from Shachaphu in Chhukha towards the site.
If you want to visit the nye properly, avoid traveling during the Maha Shivaratri festival of Hindus. That time the site will be packed and challenging to get to this sacred site.
Given the sacredness and importance of the site, the Chhukha Dzongkhag and Phuentshogling Dungkhag administrations are all set to start road construction.
You can contact the lama of Ekajati Lhakhang of Tumdra Ami Ney Lam Jigme Wangchuk at 17357200.
Accommodation at Tumdra Ami Ney/ Lhamo Ekajati Ney/ Aum Kangchim Ney
There are no accommodations in and around the Ney. Solar electricity is used for lighting purposes and no mobile networks are available. There are plans to enhance security and facilities at the site. The Phuentsholing Dungkhag administration is also working on providing electricity and mobile networks to the pilgrimage site.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Ekajati in Bhutan?
It is in Pasakha on the Indo-Bhutan border in Darla Gewog under Chhukha Dzongkhag in Bhutan and more accessible from Buxa in India than from Bhutan.
Who is Aum Kangchim Ekajati in Bhutan?
Aum Kangchim Ekajati, also known as Aum Kangchima, is a significant deity in Bhutan, particularly revered at the Dokhachu Gonpa in Chapcha. She is a guardian of mantras and is believed to grant wishes, especially those seeking wealth, longevity, and offspring. Ekajati is a Sanskrit word meaning “one” (eka) hair (jati), and she is often referred to as the “One-legged Lady” or “Lady Protectors of the Mantras” in different contexts.
How do you get to Ekajati Lhakhang from Phuentsholing?
To reach Ekajati Lhakhang from Phuentsholing, you need to follow these steps:
- Drive to Jaintey: From Phuentsholing, drive 60 km through the Indian border via Jaigaon to reach the small Indian town of Jaintey.
- Drive to the base of the Ney: From Jaintey, drive another 5 km through the riverbed until you reach the entrance gate of Tumdra Ami Ney.
- Hike to Ekajati Lhakhang: From the base of the Ney, hike up a slope for 20 minutes to reach Ekajati Lhakhang. The hike distance is 2 km and is considered easy on difficulty level.
This route takes nearly two hours from Phuentsholing town to reach the Ney.
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