Chimi Lhakhang is a fertility temple of Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman perched on a round hillock that resembles a woman’s breast in Lobesa village under Barp Gewog of Punakha Dzongkhag at an altitude of 1300 meters.
Lam Ngawang Chogyal built the Chimi Lhakhang temple in 1499 where Divine Madman subdued a demoness of Dochu La using his phallus as a “flaming thunderbolt”. Therefore, Chimi Lhakhang means “No Dog Temple”.
Since then, Chimi Lhakhang monastery has become one of the tangible manifestations of Drukpa Kuenley’s impact on Bhutanese culture. The Lhakhang is known as a fertility temple and is said to bestow blessings of fertility. Today, many couples often come here for the famous fertility blessing which involves being tapped on the head by a 10-inch wooden phallus.
How to Reach Chimi Lhakhang
Chimi Lhakhang is 1.5 kilometers from the junction where the highway from Thimphu branches to Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang. It is 10 km from Punakha Dzong and 60 km from Thimphu.
The monastery can be reached in two ways: a 10-minute shorter but steep walk from the parking lot at the base of Chimi Lhakhang or a 20-minute hike through the rice fields of Sopsokha village.
If you prefer a shorter walk, drive to a common parking space at the base of Chime Lhakhang. You will not take more than 10 minutes to get to the monastery. However, if you love hiking, you must opt for the Chimi Lhakhang hike.
Chimi Lhakhang Hike
This is the most popular trail as the hike offers visitors a picturesque and peaceful journey through the countryside. Chimi Lhakhang hike is a 20-minute hike through the paddy fields of Sopsokha village. The houses in Sopsokha village are constructed using traditional architecture with phallus murals adorning the front walls. For those wishing to take home their “Thunderbolt of Flaming Wisdom”, handicraft shops sell phallus souvenirs in all shapes, colors, and sizes to suit every occasion. Wearing comfortable walking shoes and a hat for sun protection is highly recommended.
Also Read: Kyichu Lhakhang Hike
Sacred Relics to see at Chimi Lhakhang
- A 10-inch wooden phallus totem;
- Iron phallus;
- Bow and arrow of Drukpa Kunley;
- Black chorten;
- Giant rock where demoness is trapped beneath it;
- Bodhi tree.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Chimi Lhakhang
The history of Chimi Lhakhang temple dates back to the times of Lama Drukpa Kunley around the 15th century. According to local legend, Dochula Pass, which today has 108 stupas, was home to a demoness named Loro Duem, who used to frighten anybody who tried to cross it. Two more demonesses on two smaller passes also terrorized locals. Because of them, the people lived with constant fear.
When Drukpa Kunley arrived in Bhutan, he learned about these demonesses and the miseries they had been bringing to the locals. Therefore, he traveled to Dochu La to subdue but the three demonesses recognized him. So, the two demonesses entered Loro Duem’s body and fled to Punakha.
When the demoness Loro Duem reached the hillock of Lobesa, she disguised herself by turning into a red dog. But Drukpa Kunley identified Loro Duem, caught from its ear, and used his “Thunderbolt of Flaming Wisdom” to subjugate her. Drukpa Kunley then buried the demoness under a giant rock, uttered the word ‘Chime’ which means ‘no dog’ and built a black chorten atop it pinning down the demoness. As a result, Loro Duem vowed to serve the Buddha and became Chhoekim, the local guardian deity of Chimi Lhakhang. Drukpa Kuenley then prophesied that a temple would be built in the future.
Later in the 15th century, Ngawang Chogyal, a cousin brother of Drukpa Kuenley, constructed a temple in honor of Drukpa Kunley.
The Legend of Chime Lhakhang Temple
According to another version, Drukpa Kunley entered a place he called Lokthang Kyamo, which translates to “Arid Land,” while on his quest to subdue the demons of Bhutan. Here, Drukpa Kuenley came upon Apa, an old man preparing to pass away. The old man asked for a teaching to prepare for his death. In response to his request, Drukpa Kunley taught a prayer. But the prayer was a very explicit and obscene statement. When he recited the prayer in front of his wife and daughter, they thought he was crazy because of the vulgarity of the prayer. They then insisted that he remain in a different room.
When the daughter checked how her dad was doing, she found that he had disappeared. Drukpa Kunley returned and built a stupa on the site where the old man had passed away. It is said that Chimi Lhakhang was built near this stupa later by Lam Ngawang Chogyal.
How Chimi Lhakhang Got Its Name
The temple got its name Chimi Lhakhang or Khimey Lhakhang because it was built where the dog perished. As mentioned in the biography of Lam Drukpa Kuenley, its initial name was Khibur/Chibur Lhakhang. While Khi/Chi is a dog, bur means a mound or heap formed after burying the subdued dog.
Description of Chimi Lhakhang
Chimi Lhakhang Temple is open to all, and the entry fee is Nu 500. The ticket counter is at the parking lot. A Mani Dungkhor, or a prayer wheel, is closer to the entrance. As one enters the Chime Lhakhang’s entrance gate, a bodhi tree said to have been brought from Bodhgaya in India welcomes you with shade to rest after a steep climb from the parking area.
Next to the tree is a small black chorten which marks where Drukpa Kunley subdued the demoness Loro Duem and close to the black stupa is a giant rock where the demoness is trapped beneath it. The entrance to the temple is positioned such that the visitors walk around the entire structure and then enter from the south side.
Chimi Lhakhang temple is a small, square structure that is finely painted in white, adorned with medallions of gold and brown, encircled by a row of prayer wheels, and has a brown and golden roof. Its exterior walls feature exquisite slate carvings of religious figures.
The government renovated it between 1994 and 1996 under the command of His Majesty, the Fourth King who also installed the golden pinnacle. The consecration ceremony was presided over by the present, 70th Je Khenpo, Trulku Jigme Choda on the 10th day of the 8th Lunar month of 1996. Je Khenpo also opened a new school for Buddhist learning. Today, it is being administered by the central monastic body.
Inside Chime Lhakhang Monastery
The main inner relic of Chimi Lhakhang is the reliquary stupa of Wola Gup, Tenzin. Another relic of Chimi Lhakhang is the original wooden symbol of phallus, a 10-inch (25 cm) phallus totem made of wood and ivory that Drukpa Kunley brought from Tibet. The handle of this wooden phallus is adorned with silver. Other prominent relics are Drukpa Kunley’s bow and arrow and a small chorten at the altar, which is said to have been made by Drukpa Kuenley himself. Additionally, the temple’s walls are adorned with murals that depict the life and teachings of the Divine Madman.
The middle of the altar features a statue of Drukpa Kunley in a monk’s robe reclining with a ceramic statue of his dog, Sha-khe. To the right is a statue of the temple’s founder, Lam Ngawang Chogyel. The temple also houses statues of Chenrezig, Sakyamuni Buddha, Zhabdrung, and Guru Rinpoche and a replica of the deity Lumo Choeki.
Fertility Blessing of Chimi Lhakhang
Chimi Lhakhang is well known for its unique fertility blessings rituals carried out by couples wishing for conception and successful pregnancies. Couples from all over the world come to the temple each year to receive fertility blessings. The fertility blessing ceremony at the temple involves a head monk tapping the head of a woman hoping to conceive with a 10-inch wooden and ivory phallus totem, plus the bow and arrow. The woman is then made to carry a wooden phallus around the temple three times. Finally, the woman rolls a 300-year-old bone dice to determine their chances of conception. A few couples choose to spend the night at the monastery.
Many miracle kids were born after couples visited the temple for fertility blessings. An album featuring images of children with happy parents from many countries at the temple is a testament to Drukpa Kunley’s fertility and marital happiness blessings. These newborn children often visit the temple for the head lama to bestow them with names. The Lama gives names by interpreting bamboo parchments drawn at random. The babies are either named Chime or Kunley.
Best Time to Visit Chimi Lhakhang
The best time to visit Chimi Lhakhang is from March to May and September to November when the weather is mild and the surrounding landscape is fresh and green. Chime Lhakhang is open from 9 am to 4 pm but closed for lunch from 1 pm to 2 pm. The fertility blessing rituals are usually performed in the morning hours between 9:00 am and 11:00 am. If you want to witness or seek fertility blessings, schedule your trip between 9:00 am and 11:00 am.
Conclusion
Chimi Lhakhang remains a sacred temple in Bhutan, offering visitors a chance to experience local culture, fertility blessings, and beautiful landscapes. Whether you believe in the power of fertility blessing or not, its rich history tied to the Drukpa Kunley and the unique rituals performed here make Chimi Lhakhang a must-visit pilgrimage site in Bhutan.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the story of the fertility temple in Bhutan?
Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple, was built by Ngawang Chogyel in 1499. The temple is dedicated to Drukpa Kunley, who is venerated for his unconventional teachings and humor. It attracts many couples seeking fertility blessings. Visitors participate in rituals, including carrying a wooden phallus around the temple and receiving blessings from the head Lama, symbolizing fertility.
What is the significance of Chimi Lhakhang?
Chimi Lhakhang, or the Fertility Temple, holds profound significance in Bhutanese culture and spirituality. Established in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel and blessed by the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley, the temple is a pilgrimage site for couples seeking fertility blessings. Its unique rituals, including the blessing with a wooden phallus, symbolize fertility and protection against evil spirits.
Who is the fertility god of Bhutan?
Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman, is Bhutan’s fertility god, associated with Chimi Lhakhang, where couples seek blessings for children.
Who is the deity of Chimi Lhakhang?
Chhoekim, the demoness Loro Duem subdued by Drukpa Kunley is the local deity of Chimi Lhakhang.
What is the lucky charm of Bhutan?
In Bhutan, the phallus is widely regarded as a lucky charm. It is believed to bring good fortune, ward off evil spirits, and promote fertility.
Why was Chimi Lhakhang built?
Chimi Lhakhang was built to honor Drukpa Kunley, a 15th-century saint known for his unconventional teachings.
How does the community preserve Chimi Lhakhang?
The community preserves Chimi Lhakhang through active participation in rituals and festivals, such as the Loche, held every three years. During this event, men dress as Pazaps and perform traditional ceremonies, reinforcing cultural heritage and spiritual practices. Additionally, the temple’s unique practices, like blessing visitors with a wooden phallus, symbolize fertility and contribute to its cultural preservation.
