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Rangtse Ney, the Secret Abode of Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshe Tsogyel

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Rangtse Ney is a sacred abode of Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshe Tsogyel located in Chego village in Gakiling Gewog under Haa Dzongkhag at an altitude of 1200 meters above sea level. This sacred hidden site is located on the top (Tse) of a unique bowl-shaped valley (Rong) overseeing the Amochhu. Thus, the name Rong Tse.

Also known as Sangbe Rinchenling, it is believed to be the secret site of Guru Rimpoche and Khandro Yeshey Tshogyel. Rongtse Nye is a sacred site for the two southern gewogs of Sangbaykha and Gakiling of Haa. This sacred site is more popularly known as Sangbe Nye, aptly describing its secret location among the hills.

How to Reach Rangtse Ney

Rongtse Nye, commonly known as Rangtse Ney is about a four-hour drive from the Haa-Chuzom highway. You must drive about 55 km from Haa Town to the Sangbey-Gakiling tri-junction. Take the left road from the tri-junction and drive for a few kilometers until you reach Bailey Suspension Bridge. Cross the bridge and continue driving on the road leading to Rangtse Ney.

After driving for a few more kilometers, you will reach a junction. Take the left road to the Ney, and continue driving for another few kilometers until you reach the common parking lot. From the parking area, walk across the Nyachhu stream thrice for 40 minutes to reach the base of the Rangtse Nye.

Sacred Relics to See at Rangtse Ney

  • The ‘Paksam Joenshing‘;
  • The Footprint of Guru Rinpoche;
  • Khandro Yeshey Tshogyel Drubkhang (the meditation place of Khandro Yeshe Tshogyal);
  • The Throne of Avalokiteshvara or Chenrezig Zhungthri, Khandro’s meditation hall, Khandro’s hat, volumes of religious scriptures or Choegi Lekbam, skull or kapala, a tooth and the hats of five Buddhas or Gyalwai Rignga Gi Uzha;
  • Guru Drubkhang (the meditation place of Guru Rinpoche);
  • A Vajra of Guru, Khandro’s throne, and Gomzha or meditation hat, Dakini’s womb or Khandro’s Bhaga;
  • The demoness’ ribs and heart, a ‘key’ to the sacred site, traces master’s Lake or Latsho and male and female conches of four directions or Chogzhi Gi Dungkar Pho Mo;
  • Guru’s boot or Gurui Zhablham, a sacred rock to confess one’s evil deeds or Digpa Shagni Neydo, wall painting of a temple or Lhakhang Nang Yodpai Daebri, a principal golden pillar or Sergi Kachen and statues of thousand Buddha or Sangay Tongku;
  • A treasury stone pillar or Tergi Doring, a sacred right eye of Guru Rinpoche or Gurui Chen, a saddle of Guru’s horse or Gurui Chib Ga;
  • The meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche, an assembly of deities of Guru Rinpoche or Gurui Lhatshog;
  • The Scared site of the Assembly of Kila deities or Phurpai Lhatshog;
  • The Sacred Site of Vajravarahi or Dorji Phagmoi Ney.

Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites

Historical Significance of Rangtse Ney

Rangtse Ney is a sacred site that holds great historical and religious significance. It is believed to be the secret abode of Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshey Tshogyel, who meditated at the site and left their imprints on the rocks inside the cave.

In Lodruk Chojung written by the late 69th Je Khenpo Geshe Geden Rinchen, it is stated that a sacred place of Guru Rinpoche called “Rinchen Shong” in southern Haa is Rangtse Ney. The name Rangtse Ney is derived from the prophecy of Guru Rinpoche. The sacred site is also known as Sangbay Ney which literarily translates as ‘the site which is concealed’, and sometimes, it is also called Mochu Ney as it is located near the river – Amo Chu.

In chapter 34 of Terton Sherab Mebar’s biography, Rongtse Ney is mentioned as Rinchen Dzong. 

Rangtse Nye is considered to give a new beginning to humans and provide everything, from food to shelter when our human race disappears, and the world ends. A hole inside the cave of Rangtse ney signifies such a beginning.

According to the people of Ta-nga village, the two sacred places in Rangste were said to have been visited and consecrated by revered spiritual figures such as Lama Bata or Maniwa, Lopen Sangye, Lama Barawa, Geshe Kunga Rinchen or Miktsa Marp and Geshe Doti. Yet, the place remained lesser known among the people.

On 23rd December 2017, His Majesty the King graced the inauguration of Rangtse Nye in Haa.

Description of Rongtse Ney

Rangtse Nye is a sacred and serene site surrounded by lush green forests and mountains. The site is adorned with colorful prayer flags, stupas, and rock carvings that depict the life and teachings of Guru Rinpoche. The site offers a peaceful and spiritual atmosphere and is a popular pilgrimage site in Bhutan.

Before reaching the ney, you can find a magnificent tree believed to be the Bodhi tree and a ‘Paksam Joenshing’ with peculiar rock shapes like mountains and a footprint of Guru Rinpoche as well as many other rocks in different shapes and sizes with interesting features.

To reach the ney, you must follow the steps. There are two entrances: Guru Drubphug- the meditative cave of Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Drubphug- the meditative cave of Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal. First, you see the Khandro Drubphug and a few steps up, the Guru Drubphug.

Khandro DrubPhug-the meditation cave of Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal

The meditation cave of Khandro is located on the way to Gurui Drubphug. When you enter the cave, the visible sights are the naturally formed breasts of Khandro. As you go further inside the cave, you can see the throne of Avalokiteshvara or Chenrezig Ki Zhungthri, Khandro’s meditation hall, Khandro’s hat, volumes of religious scriptures or Choegi Lekbam, skull or kapala, a tooth and the hats of five Buddhas or Gyalwai Rignga Gi Uzha.

Guru DrubPhug-the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche

The Guru Drubphug is the main site where you can discover a series of doors/entrances or Neygo. The doors gradually get smaller as you move further into the sacred site, and most people give up on the fifth entry. However, it is said that the cave has seven entrances.

First Door/Entrance

Once you enter the first entrance of the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche or Guru Drubkhang, there is a Vajra of Guru on the side of a rock. It is believed that this secret Vajra grants blessings to couples wishing for a son. On the left side of the cave are Khandro’s throne and Gomzha (meditation hat). As you go further, there are Guru’s Sacred Vajra and Dakini’s womb (Khandro Baga). It is believed that the Guru’s Vajra and Khandro’s Bhaga were revealed as natural treasures for the followers to purify their defilements of marriage and karmic punishment for their sins.

Second Door/Entrance

When you enter the second door, you can see Khandro’s Bhaga. Some people believe that this Bhaga will bestow and bless a couple with a daughter if they pray for one. You can also see the demoness’ ribs and heart. It is said that Guru Rinpoche defeated the demon in the West and hid it here as a treasure. This treasure is known to certain villages as the ‘sacred place of the demon’s heart.’ As you continue, you will come upon a “key” to the sacred location, the remains of Master’s Lake or Latsho, and Chogzhi Gi Dungkar Pho Mo, or the male and female conches of four directions.

Third Door/Entrance

Inside the third entrance, you can see Guru’s boot or Gurui Zhablham, Guru’s footprint or Gurui Zhabjey, a sacred rock to confess one’s evil deeds or Digpa Shagni Neydo, a wall painting of a temple or Lhakhang Nang Yodpai Daebri, a principal golden pillar or Sergi Kachen and statues of thousand Buddha or Sangay Tongku.

Fourth Door/Entrance

When you enter the fourth entrance, you can see a treasury stone pillar or Tergi Doring, a demoness’ heart or Dudmoi Dunhing, a sacred right eye of Guru Rinpoche (Gurui Chen), a saddle of Guru’s horse or Gurui Chib Ga and different religious figurines.

Fifth Door/Entrance

The fifth door leads you to the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche. Here you can see the sacred deposits resembling an assembly of deities of Guru Rinpoche (Gurui Lhatshog) and a small aperture or hollow space where one can meditate.

Sixth Door/Entrance

The sixth entrance has a narrow passage. Even though most people give up trying to enter through this door, there is an exit if you can. No religious artifacts about the sixth entrance are mentioned in any available sources.

It is said that there are many underpasses’ routes inside the Nye, of which, one is believed to lead to a Nye in Sikkim.

The Scared site of the Assembly of Kila deities or Phurpai Lhatshog

The sacred site of Phurpai Lhatshog is located above the Khandroi Drubphug and Gurui Drubphug. Together with a Khadroi Bhaga, the Kilas assembly can be found in the shapes of rocks and trees. The 108 Kilas are shown as a tree, or Joengshing. It is believed that Guru Rinpoche meditated on the deities of Kilas and transformed the trees and rocks into Kila representations.

The Sacred Site of Vajravarahi or Dorji Phagmoi Ney

Rongtse Dorji Phagmoi Ney is about an hour’s drive from Rongtse School towards Ta-nga village, in the south-west of Rangtse village. This sacred site is no different from the Dorji Phagmo’s site in Tibet.

Here you can see the natural rock formations of the Dragon, an elephant’s trunk, a conch, ritual cakes, vessels of water offerings, Vajravarahi’s womb or Dorji Phagmoi Bhaga, Dakini’s nipples or Dodjoi Numa, rock image of Vajravarahi, a naturally formed and concealed lake, etc.

Rangtse Tashicholing Goenpa

Rangtse Tashicholing Lhakhang is at the top of the sacred Rangtse Ney in Rangtse village, Gakiling Gewog under Haa Dzongkhag. The name reflects the meaning of “the temple situated on the place of auspicious (sacred) Rangtse (sites).” The temple is a 15 km drive from the junction of Rangtse Ney on the left and Rangtse village on the right. One has to walk upward for 10-15 minutes to reach the temple.

The two-storied temple was constructed in 1996 by Agay Damchoe. The first floor houses the main altar and relics. As one enters the first floor, on the main altar, one can see the statues of Rigsum Goenpo, also considered ‘The Protectors of the Three Families’, comprising Manjushri, Avalokitesvara, and Vajrapani. There are smaller statues of Avalokitesvara, Guru Padmasambhava, Buddha, and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal on the altar. On the left side of the altar, there is a statue of the local deity, Baytsho Kathrap.

The ground floor is used to accommodate devotees during the chanting of prayers and as a guest room for the devotees.

Rangtse Tshechu

Rangtse Tshechu is a festival celebrated every year on the 10th day of the 10th month of the Bhutanese calendar, coinciding with the inauguration of Rangtse Nye by His Majesty the King in 2017. The Rangtse Tshechu includes mask dances and traditional songs.

The significance of Rangtse Tshechu is to honor Guru Rinpoche, who brought Tantric Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century, and to invoke the power of the higher beings to grant continued peace and prosperity. The festival is also a time for people to give thanks, supplicate for good days ahead, socialize, entertain, receive blessings, and wash away their sins.

Since 2017, the Haa Dzongkhag coordinated and performed Tshechu. From 2023, the Tshechu was conducted by the community of Rangtse and will continue.

Best Time to Visit Rangtse Ney

The best time to visit Rangtse Ney is from March to May and September to November. The weather is pleasant during these months, and lush green forests and blooming flowers surround the site. It is advisable to carry warm clothes as the temperature can drop at night. The Nye is completely cut off during summer due to the swollen stream. So, avoid visiting in the summer.

We recommend that those visiting the site take a local guide and carry a powerful headlight. The ideal time to visit Rangtse Ney would be during the Rangtse Tshechu which is celebrated every year on the 10th day of the 10th month of the Bhutanese calendar. You can visit many major pilgrimage sites of Haa with the Bhutan Pilgrimage Package.

You can contact Rongtse Lam Tshechu Dorji at 17375503.

Accommodation at Rangtse Ney

There are no homestays or guesthouses other than the Dungkhag guest house which remains mostly booked. I suggest you take tents and experience the nightlife right beneath the nye. However, the dzongkhag administration plans to develop campsites, hot stone baths, Nye electrification, footsteps construction, walking trails, signages, and other tourism infrastructures under the Tourism Flagship Program.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who discovered the Rangtse nye?

Rangtse Nye is a secret abode of Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshey Tshogyel, visited and consecrated by revered spiritual figures such as Lama Bata, Lopen Sangye, Lama Barawa, Geshe Kunga Rinchen and Geshe Doti. Yet, the place remained lesser known among the people. On 23rd December 2017, His Majesty the King graced the inauguration of Rangtse Nye in Haa.

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