Tha Namkhai Dzong is a holy site of Guru Rinpoche that resembles the frontier sky fortress, featuring a religious bell hanging from a cliff and an Urn (Thro) located in Laja Gewog under Dagana Dzongkhag at an elevation of 1560 meters above sea level.
Tha Namkhai Dzong is believed to contain treasure or Ter, with a prophecy that an accomplished religious master would rediscover the treasure. The site is challenging to reach, with a narrow, bumpy road, making it unsuitable for small vehicles.
How to Reach Tha Namkhai Dzong
This sacred site can be approached from either Burichhu in Tsirang on foot or by driving through Drujeygang-Tsangkha-Larjab gewogs in Dagana. Although it is a steep climb from Burichhu, many prefer to hike than take a risky drive through a steep, narrow road in the forests. The journey is a feast for the hungry eye, the winding Tsirang-Thimphu highway, the turquoise Sunkosh, and tiny houses dotting the places. The trip to this remarkable site involves a trek through the beautiful Bhutanese landscape, adding to the sense of adventure and discovery.
Sacred Relics to See at Tha Namkhai Dzong
- A religious bell hanging from a cliff;
- The clapper in the shape of a peepal leaf;
- An Urn or Thro;
- Khandu Chhag Phuelsa;
- Treasure box;
- Secret weapon (phallus) of Guru Rinpoche.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Tha Namkhai Dzong
‘Tha Namkhai Dzong’ is a sacred site blessed by Guru Rimpoche in the 8th century. According to legend, a fortunate cow herder from the village mistakenly entered the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche while looking for his cattle. He attended a feast with celestial beings who told him not to reveal the “dzong” to others. After coming out of the cave, the man, who had lost track of time and place, to his surprise, discovered that three generations had already passed.
At present, Guru Rinpoche’s meditation cave is inaccessible. It is said that the protective deities closed the sacred sites. No one dares to climb the cliff. A few years ago, a man from a nearby valley tried it. He was stuck in the middle of the cliff. Since then, a series of misfortunes followed him.
The Treasure or Ter
According to local beliefs, the entire cliff of Tha Namkhai Dzong is said to contain treasure or Ter. It is believed that the key to the Ter fell into Demi Tsho, a lake located in the Sunkosh River near Burichhu when Guru Rinpoche was flying from Tha Namkhai Dzong to Dakini or Khandom Ney in Tsirang Toed. There he prophesied that an accomplished religious master would be able to rediscover the treasure in the future.
The verse of his prophecy goes:
“Under the frog-shaped stone is the hidden treasure; in Tanabji, there is a turquoise, and the key is in the lake.”
Biographies of prominent Buddhist saints such as Drubthob Thangtong Gyalpo, Gangteng Tulku Gyalse Pema Thinley, and Zhabdrung Jigme Chogyal, record their visits to this sacred site.
Another legend has it that when Daga Trashiyangtse Dzong was being constructed, the megalith known as the Frontier Sky Fortress emitted telepathic messages to the builders stating that the Dzong would collapse if it were built any higher than it currently stands. Even today the golden cupola of the Dzong is said to be level with the tip of the megalith.
Description of Tha Namkhai Dzong
Tha Namkhai Dzong is the same height as the Dakini’s site above the ruins of Tsirangtoed in Tsirang. It is part of the three-sister pillars including Do Namkhai Kaw and Do Kelpai Goenthem positioned in different locations as part of a larger tripod across Dagana.
Tha Namkhai Dzong is named the Frontier Sky Fortress, and the mountain where the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche is believed to be located appears to be a fortress miraculously suspended from the sky. Situated at an archery range from the nearest footpath, the Tha Namkhai Dzong is a holy site with a religious bell hanging from a cliff. Above the bell, one can also see an Urn (ཁྲོ།).
However, finding the bell with the naked eye can be challenging, so the Dagana District Administration has placed a binocular at the site to help devotees locate it easily.
Once the binocular is positioned and focused, one can see the bell and urn or Thro above it. The rock from where a bell can be seen hanging is said to resemble a frog. From the other side of the river, the clapper in the shape of a peepal leaf can be spotted hanging by the cliff. It is said that only those who were fortunate or had a deep devotion to Guru Rinpoche could easily locate and hear the sound of the religious bell. Some visitors would have to recite Baza Guru prayers several times before hearing the bell’s sound. However, sometimes even when the clapper oscillates, people cannot hear the sound of the bell.
Other Sacred Sites
On the return journey from the Tha Namkhai Dzong, devotees are greeted with two more pilgrim sites in Thasa village called Zhabjethang, named after a footprint, left by Guru Rinpoche and Khandu Chhag Phuelsa. On this site, the body prints of seven Dakinis were left when they were prostrating to a treasure box towards the left side of Tha Namkhai Dzong. There is the skull of an elephant and Guru Rinpoche’s secret weapon (phallus) below Zhabjethang. Visitors can also marvel at the footprints of different animals on rocks and stones.
Tha Namkhai Dzong is the same height as the Dakini’s site above the ruins of Tsirangtoed in Tsirang. It is part of the three-sister pillars (Do Namkhai Kaw and Do Kelpai Goenthem) positioned in different locations as part of a larger tripod across places in Dagana.
Best Time to Visit Tha Namkhai Dzong
The journey to the Tha Namkhai Dzong can be challenging for devotees as the road beyond Thasa village is narrow and bumpy, making it unsuitable for small vehicles. The best time to visit Tha Namkhai Dzong is during the dry season, typically between October and December. The weather is generally more favorable for trekking and exploring the area during this period, allowing visitors to appreciate the history and sacredness of the site fully.
On the 10th day of the second month of the Bhutanese calendar, Tanabji people conduct a Tshechu yearly. This time of the year would be apt for devotees to visit this sacred place of Guru Padmasambhava and witness the vibrant celebration of tradition and culture.
Accommodation at Tha Namkhai Dzong
There are no accommodations available at present. However, with increased visitors to the sacred site, the Dagana District Culture sector plans to construct a new Lhakhang and encourage homestays in Thasa village in collaboration with the Laja Gewog Administration.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Dagana famous for?
Dagana is well known for the three stone Megaliths, known as “Sky Pillar Rock” (Do Namkhai Kaw), “The Rock of Ancient Steps” (Do Kelpai Genthey), and “The Frontier Sky Fortress” (Tha Namkhai Dzong).
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