Thowadra is a sacred cliff of Guru Rinpoche founded by Mandarava, the consort of Guru Rimpoche where a wooden Garuda is said to have been left after exiling Tibetan king Khikha Rathoe from Khenpajong valley. Thowadra Lhakhang is located at the extreme north of Chutoed village under Tang Gewog in Bumthang Dzongkhag at an altitude of 3,400 meters.
Thowadrak, which means “high cliff“, is one of the four sacred cliffs of Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang blessed by the visits of Guru Rinpoche and many other great Buddhist masters. Today, Thowadrak Monastery, like the famed Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro, clings to the high cliff towards the north of Tang Valley of Bumthang.
Thowadra is one of the Four cliffs (Dra Zhi) of Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang valley. Thowadra Lhakhang, also called Tha Dra, is one of the “gates” that lead to the secret valley of Khenpajong. The Lhakhang is considered kay-lha yi-lha for the Chutoed communities.
How to Reach Thowadrak
Thowadrak is 47 kilometers away from Chamkhar Town. The road ends at the foot of the sacred high cliff. The Thowadrak trek is a 3-hour hike through the serene and peaceful forest from the nearest farm road point. The hike is considered medium on difficulty rating though many pilgrims frequent the sacred site quite easily.
The trail begins near the Karap suspension bridge. After about an hour of walking along the dirt road, five minutes beyond a white Chorten, take the right-branching route down to the river’s wooden bridge. For 20 minutes, follow the wonderful riverside walk to a second bridge by a Bhutanese-style chorten.
The walk leads to a white chorten surrounded by beautiful deep woodland on the right, past well-kept mani walls. The trail climbs steeply, passing trailside shrines, Dakini marks, carved mantras, and a stone lion’s footprint. The final 40 minutes are a grueling ascent of increasingly steep steps.
Sacred Relics to See at Thowadra
- Caves where Guru Rinpoche & Gelongma Pelmo meditated;
- Holy Drupchhu of Guru & Gelongma Pelmo;
- Guru Rinpoche’s stone throne;
- Dakinis’ bathtub;
- Tsari Nungma (bamboo) from Tsari Ney of Tibet;
- Thowadrak Monastery.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Thowadrak
Thowadrak is a sacred cave at the highest cliff towards the north end of the Tang Valley in Bumthang. It is said to have been founded by Mandarava, the consort of Guru Padmasambhava, and Guru Rimpoche, who is believed to have meditated there in the 8th century. The cliff resembles Phurpa, the ritual dagger. It is also here that Guru Rinpoche is said to have left a wooden Garuda after exiling Tibetan king Khikha Rathoe from Khenpajong valley.
Thowadra was originally founded in 1238 by Lorepa Drangpa Wangchuk as a Tshamkhang who also established Choedrak Monastery in Chumey. Around the end of the 18th century, Changchub Gyeltsen (also known as Jigme Kundrel) founded a Nyingmapa monastic community. However, after his passing, the Lhakhang was neglected resulting in deterioration. Later, Choeje Ngawang Trinley renovated it while meditating there.
Visit of Gelongma Palmo
According to an oral source, Gelongma Palmo, the daughter of King Indrabhuti of Kashmir along with her servant Samphelmo arrived at Thowadrak and practiced Nyungne Chagyed (eight pairs of fasting practice) in the 10th/11th century. Gelongma Pelmo meditated there for a long time, and her leprosy was cured.
It is said that, at the end of her Nyungne sadhana, Avalokiteshvara appeared and asked her to leave the representatives of her body, speech, and mind when she returned from this place. Therefore, she left her image Ngadrama (looking-like-me) as her body representative, Six Syllable Mani-mantra on a stone as her speech representative, and the Desheg Chorten Gyad (the eight Sugata stupas) as her mind representative.
Original Name of Thowadrak
The original name of Thowadrak was Thadrak. It is mentioned in the letters written by Jigme Kuendrol to his master Kunkhyen Jigme Lingpa, back in Tibet. The letters were written when Jigme Kuendrel was meditating in Thadrak about meditation-related questions and answers. However, later it became known as Thowa Drak since it is located on the high mountaintop.
Description of Thowadrak
The Bumthang Dzongkhag is popularly known for Drakchen Zhi (Four Great Meditation Cliffs), Choedrak in Chumey, Shugdra in Choekhor, Kunzangdra & Thowadrak in Tang Valley. Since it is the highest among all holy sites in four blocks of Bumthang, it got its name Thowa Drak or high cliff.
The cliff where the sacred site is located is in the form of self-created Vajrakila; hence it is also believed to be the holy site of Activity – Phurpa. The sacred high cliff Thowadra has a monastery, scattered retreat houses, and Thowadrak Lam’s residence above the monastery. Behind the monastery is a cave where Guru Rinpoche & Gelongma Pelmo are said to have meditated.
Guru Rinpoche’s stone throne is above the monastery under a cypress tree and stones believed to be Dakinis’ bathtub. One can see a spring blessed by Guru Rinpoche and Gelongma Pelmo coming out of the rock and revered as the Drupchhu by the pilgrims.
Also Read: Drupchhu or Holy Spring Waters in Bhutan: Beliefs and Benefits
The bamboo around Thowadrak is said to be Tsari Nguma believed to be brought from Tsari Ney of south-east Tibet. Pilgrims take bamboo as protection from evils.
Thowadrak Lhakhang
On the instruction of Minjur Tenpa, Thowadrak Lhakhang was built by Choedrak Lama Sherab Jungney in the 17th century. It was constructed under the patronage of Trongsa Chila with a labor force provided by the people of Tang. The Lhakhang was named Pema Yoesel Choeling Goenpa. The main statues are Guru Padmasambhava and Chenrigzi. Since Gonpa could only be cared for by a carer, its condition somewhat worsened in the middle of the 20th century. Later, a new Gomdey was built by Pema Sherab Dorje.
Thowadra Lhakhang is a three-storied structure built using stones, mud, and timber. The monastery clings to the highest cliff north of Tang Valley, just like the famed Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro. The Lhakhang is built covering a rock and has space to circumambulate around the Lhakhang. It has a thick stone wall and the roof follows the gradient and profile of the cliff behind the Lhakhang. Between the mini-mountain and the cliff, there is enough space for a person to walk sideways, and the space is known as the door of the apocalypse. The cornice is shaped like a bird’s neck (ngangpa) and the Lhakhang has two pinnacles, one ancient Gyeltshen, and the other modern one Sertog.
Thowadra Festival
The fasting festival is very famous. It is conducted through community funding for five days from the 13th to the 17th day of the 1st month of the Bhutanese calendar. The community of Chutoed offers the first harvest of grains for the festival.
The Shakpa festival is conducted on the 10th day of the 9th month of the Bhutanese calendar. It is mainly for the forgiveness of the sins committed. Kanjur Daksa festival is conducted for 21 days on the 2nd month of the Bhutanese calendar by tshampas for the wellbeing of all.
Best Time to Visit Thowadra Monastery
You can visit any time of the season. Our recommendation would be to visit during one of the festival seasons. Thowadrak is highly recommended as a sacred and blessed pilgrimage site of Guru Rinpoche and a perfect meditation place. The only sounds you hear are the rushing stream and the rustle of bamboo in the chilly breeze. While returning, don’t forget to bring the Tsari Nguma bamboo sustainably.
You can contact the site manager, Khangrab Tshogpa Leki at 17234972.
Did you like this post? If so, please subscribe to our latest updates for more!
