Thowadra is a sacred cliff of Guru Rinpoche founded by Mandarava, the consort of Guru Rimpoche where a wooden Garuda is said to have been left after exiling Tibetan king Khikha Rathoe from Khenpajong valley. It is located at an altitude of 3,400 meters in Bumthang Dzongkhag.
Thowadrak, which means “high cliff“, is one of the four sacred cliffs of Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang blessed by the visits of Guru Rinpoche and many other great Buddhist masters. Today, Thowadrak Monastery, like the famed Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro, clings to the high cliff towards the north of Tang Valley of Bumthang.
Also Read: Dra Zhi, the Four Great Meditation Cliffs of Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang
How to Reach Thowadrak
Thowadrak is 47 kilometers away from Chamkhar Town. The road ends at the foot of the sacred high cliff. The Thowadrak trek is a 3-hour hike through the serene and peaceful forest. The hike is considered medium difficult though many pilgrims frequent the sacred site quite easily.
The trail begins near the Karap suspension bridge. After about an hour of walking along the dirt road, five minutes beyond a white Chorten, take the right-branching route down to the river’s wooden bridge. For 20 minutes, follow the wonderful riverside walk to a second bridge by a Bhutanese-style chorten.
The walk leads to a white chorten surrounded by beautiful deep woodland on the right, past well-kept mani walls. The trail climbs steeply, passing trailside shrines, Dakini marks, carved mantras, and a stone lion’s footprint. The final 40 minutes are a grueling ascent of increasingly steep steps.
Sacred Relics to See at Thowadra
- Caves where Guru Rinpoche & Gelongma Pelmo meditated;
- Holy Drupchhu of Guru & Gelongma Pelmo;
- Guru Rinpoche’s stone throne;
- Dakinis’ bathtub;
- Tsari Nungma (bamboo) from Tsari Ney of Tibet;
- Thowadrak Monastery.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Thowadrak
Thowadrak is a sacred cave at the highest cliff towards the north end of the Tang Valley in Bumthang. It is said to have been founded by Mandarava, the consort of Guru Padmasambhava, and Guru Rimpoche himself, who is believed to have meditated there in the 8th century. The crag resembles Phurpa, the ritual dagger.
Guru Rinpoche subdued the treasure protector Richen Gonyak and his retinues by Guru’s solemn oath and entrusted him as the guardian deity of Tang Valley. It is also here that Guru Rinpoche is said to have left a wooden Garuda after exiling Tibetan king Khikha Rathoe from Khenpajong valley.
Visit of Gelongma Palmo
According to an oral source, Gelongma Palmo, the daughter of King Indrabhuti of Kashmir along with her servant Samphelmo arrived at Thowadrak and practiced Nyungne Chagyed (eight pairs of fasting practice) in the 10th/11th century. Gelongma Pelmo meditated there for a long time, and her leprosy was cured.
In the dawn of the day of the end of her Nyungne sadhana, Avalokiteshvara appeared in real form and prophesied to her that she should leave her body, speech, and mind representatives when she returned from this place. Therefore, she left her image Ngadrama (looking-like-me) as her body representative, Six Syllable Mani-mantra on a stone resembling a sheep’s lever shape as her speech representative, and the Desheg Choeten Gyad (the eight Sugata stupas) as her mind representative. She is also said to have left her body imprint and Drubchhu at Thowadrak.
Original Name of Thowadrak
During the time of Kunkhyen Jigme Lingpa, the present Thowadrak is said to have been known as Thadrak. When Jigme Lingpa’s close disciple Jigme Kundrol was meditating at Thowadrak, the exchange of letters relating to question and answer on meditation aspects took place between Jigme Kundrol and his Master (Jigme Lingpa) back in Tibet. In these letters, the place is mentioned as Thadrak; however, later it became known as Thowa Drak since it is located on the high mountaintop.
Jangchub Gyeltshen, a disciple of Dzogchen master Jigme Lingpa, founded a Nyingmapa monastic community there in the 18th century. Since then, the followers of Jigme Lingpa, one of the most prominent Tertons of Tibet, and Jigme Kundrol of the Longchen Nyingthig tradition settled there.
Description of Thowadrak
The Bumthang Dzongkhag is popularly known for Drakchen Zhi (Four Great Meditation Cliffs), Choedrak in Chumey, Shugdra in Choekhor, Kunzangdra & Thowadrak in Tang Valley. Since it is the highest among all holy sites in four blocks of Bumthang, it got its name Thowa Drak.
The cliff where the sacred site is located is in the form of self-created Vajrakila; hence it is also believed to be the holy site of Activity – Phurpa. The sacred high cliff Thowadra has a monastery, scattered retreat houses, and Thowadrak Lam’s residence above the monastery. Behind the monastery is a cave where Guru Rinpoche & Gelongma Pelmo are said to have meditated.
Guru Rinpoche’s stone throne is above the monastery under a cypress tree and stones believed to be Dakinis’ bathtub. One can see a spring blessed by Guru Rinpoche and Gelongma Pelmo coming out of the rock and revered as the Drupchhu by the pilgrims.
Also Read: Drupchhu or Holy Spring Waters in Bhutan: Beliefs and Benefits
The bamboo around Thowadrak is said to be Tsari Nguma believed to be brought from Tsari Ney of south-east Tibet. Pilgrims take bamboo as protection from evils.
Thowadrak Lhakhang
The Thowadra monastery clings to the highest cliff north of Tang Valley, just like the famed Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro. Gyelwa Lorrepa Dragpa Wangchuk built the Lhakhang in 1238 and established Choedrak Monastery in Chumey.
In the 17th century, when Bhutan was consolidated as a nation, there was a small hermitage at the site where the present Lhakhang stands, and on the instruction of Minjur Tenpa the present Thowadrak Lhakhang was built under the patronage of Trongsa Chila being supervised by Choedrak Lama Sherab Jungney and with labor force provided from Tang. It was named Pema Yoesel Choeling Goenpa. The main statues are Guru Padmasambhava and Chenrigzi.
In the mid-20th century, the condition of Gonpa slightly deteriorated as only a caretaker managed it. The then Home Minister Tamzhing Jagar appointed the present lama Pema Sherab Dorje under whose initiative a new Gomdey was established, which is still under full function.
Best Time to Visit Thowadra Monastery
You can visit any time of the season. Thowadrak is highly recommended as a sacred and blessed pilgrimage site of Guru Rinpoche and a perfect meditation place. The only sounds you hear are the rushing stream and the rustle of bamboo in the chilly breeze. While returning, don’t forget to bring the Tsari Nguma bamboo sustainably.
You can contact the site manager, Khangrab Tshogpa Leki at 17234972.
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