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Zhabjethang, the Plain where Guru Rinpoche Meditated and left His Footprint

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Zhabjethang is a sacred plain in Chhokhor Toed under Bumthang Dzongkhag where Guru Rinpoche and his consort Tashi Khyidren meditated and left their footprints.

A Lhakhang was built later at the sacred site known as Zhabjeythang Lhakhang. The Lhakhang is a two-storey house but is distinguished by a red band above Zhabthang village in the upper Chhoekhor valley.

You are, however, cautioned not to confuse Zhabjethang Lhakhang with Zhabje Lhakhang at Dangchu Gewog under Wangdue Phodrang Dzongkhag.

How to Reach Zhabjethang

The Zhabjethang Lhakhang is located above the settlement of Zhabthang in the upper Chhoekhor Valley near the Chhoekhor Toe Primary School. One can easily reach the sacred site by road. The motorable road is not far from the Zhabjethang Lhakhang. It is 15 kilometers from Jakar Dzong.

Sacred Relics to See Bumthang Zhabjethang

  • Footprint of Guru Rinpoche;
  • The footprint of Menmo Tashi Khyidren;
  • A throne (Zhug Thri) of Guru Rinpoche;
  • A tree believed to be Guru’s walking stick;
  • The Statues of Guru Tsokhorsum (Guru and two consorts- usually Yeshey Tshogyel and Mendarawa);
  • There is a place where Lama Drukpa Kuenley and Terton Pema Lingpa debated by showing their attainment of spiritual powers;
  • The sacred footprints of Trulku Choduen Goenbo;
  • A firefighting competition at the Chaw Dhugpa festival.

Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites

Historical Significance of Zhabjeythang

Zhabjethang was once said to be a lake turned into a plain by the miraculous power of Guru Rimpoche who was destined to bless the place as one of his meditation hermitages by throwing a stone at the lake. After turning the lake into the plain, Guru Padmasambhava is said to have meditated at Zhabjethang in the 8th century and left various imprints in the rocks, including his footprint, which is a revered relic. As a result, the area became known as Zhabjethang, or “The Plain of the Footprint.”

In the 14th century, Terchen Dorji Lingpa visited Zhabjethang and founded a small temple in this sacred place. Since then, Zhabjithang Goenpa has been the seat of Terten Dorji Lingpa. The Terton has also left behind some of his Termas in the temple. Trulku Choduen Goenpo, an immediate incarnation of Terton Dorji Lingpa also spent time inside this temple.

Later, Terton Ugyen Zangpo, one of the heart disciples of Terton Dorji Lingpa, who was born in upper Chokhor Valley, also spent time in this sacred place.

Gyalwa Longchen Rabjam visited this sacred place. Later his immediate incarnation Terton Pema Lingpa also blessed the place. Choje Drukpa Kuenley also visited the holy plain of Zhabethang while visiting Bumthang.

The 6th Gyalwang Karmapa Thongwa Donden the 7th Gyalwang Karmapa Chodrak Gyatso and the 4th Shamar Rinpoche visited this temple (13-15 century). They used to go to Tibet and visit Bhutan through this temple then. This temple was the last temple and last place (last settlements) located on the main route between Tibet and Bhutan.

Later in the 20th century, His Holiness 16th Karmapa spent time with his four heart-sons inside this temple just after leaving Tibet. His Holiness and his group taught people about the empowerment of long life and the Blackhead ceremony.

Around 1840, lama Jangchub Tsondru (1817-1856), a Tibetan religious authority who became the lama of Jigme Namgyal, the Trongsa Penlop and father of the first King Ugyen Wangchuck, paid a visit to Zhabjethang.

Tsampa Ngawangla, one of the disciples of the Azom Drukpa was born in Zhabjithang and spent the latter part of his life in this temple. Later under the instructions of Adzom Gyalse Gyurme Dorji (Adzom Drukpa’s heart son), one of the heart disciples Drubwang Lam Serphu founded a meditation center above this sacred place.

Zhabjethang is also believed to have 108 footprints of Guru Rinpoche around the Sacred site of Zhabjethang.

Description of Zhabjeythang

A rock carrying the footprints of Guru Rinpoche and his consort Menmo Tashi Khyidren, the daughter of King Sindhu Raja of Bumthang whose life was saved by Guru Rinpoche, can be found on the bottom floor in a small chamber of Zhabjethang Goempa.

Above the Lhakhang, is a throne (Zhug Thri) of Guru Rinpoche. A tree said to be Guru’s walking stick can also be seen. In the open ground, we still see traces of retrieving a knife while subduing a demon disguised as a black yak, probably used to chop the head and skin.

There is a place where Lama Drukpa Kuenley and Terton Pema Lingpa debated by showing their attainment of spiritual powers. Little far away from this sacred place, are the footprints of Trulku Choduen Goenbo.

Zhabjethang Lhakhang

Terton Dorji Lingpa first built the Zhabjethang Lhakhang. It is a two-story structure that resembles a home but has a distinct red band and a row of prayer wheels. It is located above the settlement of Zhabthang in the upper Chhoekhor valley. Later in the 15th century, Trulku Chokden Gonpo, the reincarnation of Terton Dorji Lingpa renovated the temple once. In the 20th century, one businessman from Trongsa, Tshongpon Dolong renovated and extended the height. The date of the current structure’s foundation is unknown, but it is believed to have existed since the 19th century.

The Statues of Guru Tsokhor Sum (Guru and two consorts- usually Yeshey Tshogyel and Mendarawa) sculptured by Terton Ugyen Zangpo are the main relics of the Zhabjeythang Lhakhang. They are similar to those in Chakhar Lhakhang. A magnificent painting of the 12th-century Tibetan saint Milarepa, possibly done in the late 19th century, may also be found in the Lhakhang. Drubwang Lam Serphu founded a meditation center above this sacred place.

Dorling Dung Karma Lhawang once the owner of Zhabjethang Lhakhang offered Ranjung Rasarpani (the self-created image of Avalokiteshvara) to Trongsa Dzong which he brought from Tibet as per the recommendation of Desi Jigme Namgyel (then the Governor of Trongsa). As compensation, the governor of Trongsa offered land in the temple’s name. Today we can see Rangjung Rasarpani inside Dechog Lhakhang of Trongsa Dzong.

The temple is owned by the descendants of Terton Dorji Lingpa themselves as the private temple handed down from one generation to another (parents to children). Currently, a caretaker looks after the Zhabjethang Lhakhang and performs the community’s rituals.

Best Time to Visit Bumthang Zhabjethang Lhakhang

You can visit any time of the year. Bumthang’s Zhabjethang village is one of the villages chosen for homestays. So, while on your trip to one of the holiest sites, you can stay in a homestay. If time allows, you can also hike to Wangchuck Centennial National Park or visit the GNH Center, which is close. However, festival lovers should see on the 29th day of the 10th month of the Bhutanese calendar, when the Chaw Dhugpa Festival is held, during which residents of Zhabjethang and neighboring villages of Chhoekhor-Toe compete in a firefighting competition. Religious mask dances are also performed at the festival.

You can contact the site manager Kuenzang Dorji at 17291727.

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