Dzongdrakha is a sacred cliff above the two villages of Bonday and Gyepjag under Paro Dzongkhag blessed by Guru Rinpoche during his second visit to Bhutan in 822 A.D from Tibet at an altitude of 1400 meters above sea level. Later, Drupthob Gonpo Dorji built a Lhakhang and named it Dzongdrakha Goemba.
Dzongdrakha Monastery is often called the Second Taktsang mainly due to its location setting as it is perched on a cliff-side on the western side of Paro Valley. This visually splendid but seldom visited Dzongdrakha Goenpa is worth a short detour off the Paro–Cheli La road.
How to Reach Dzongdrakha Goemba
Dzongdrakha is a 20-minute drive from Paro International Airport toward the Paro-Haa highway. Dzongdrakha is located under Lungnyi Gewog of Paro dzongkhag. From the road point, you must walk through some historic homes for an additional 15 minutes.
Dzongdrakha Hike: Nature enthusiasts can choose to hike to the monastery. The hike is not as strenuous as to Paro Taktsang. Reaching the monastery requires a 40-minute walk through the forest of rhododendrons and oak trees. The breathtaking views of the valley it surrounds will undoubtedly captivate you. Hiking to Dzongdrakha Gompa is a favored thing in Paro apart from Tiger’s Nest trekking.
Sacred Relics to See at Dzongdrakha Monastery
- A crystal stupa (chorten) which is as long as an arrow;
- Egg-shaped relic of Sangay Youelsum (Karshapa);
- Meditation cave of Drubthob Gonpo Dorji;
- Immovable statue of Buddha Sakyamuni;
- Sacred dagger marks in a stone.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Dzongdrakha
Guru Rimpoche is said to have flown to the sacred site from Drak Karpo in Paro just above Shaba in the 8th century. One can still see the footprints of Guru Rinpoche at the base of the cliff.
In the later part of the 13th century, Karzhi Rinchen Samten Pelzang had a dream in which a Khandrom gave him instructions to travel to Zhungphug in Moen Yuel (Bhutan), where the treasures of Guru Rinpoche were concealed. Lam Karzhi Rinchen Samten Pelzang then shared his dream with a dedicated disciple, Drupthob Gonpo Dorji who later followed the instruction given to Lam Karzhi Rinchen Samten Pelzang by the Khandrom.
Drubthop Gonpo Dorji then proceeded towards Moen Yuel in 1428 in search of the place called Zhungphug in Paro. It is believed that a jackal (female wolf) came and pointed out Zhungphug to him when he arrived at a riverside and was unsure of where to go. As a result, this location became known as “Wachu,” today known as “Woochu.”
The Drubthog and the jackal followed the river’s right bank until they were close to a cave, where they encountered a little kid who miraculously began speaking for the first time when he spotted the Drubthob. The dumb boy on seeing the Lam is supposed to have cried out, “Mother a guest is approaching and it’s going to start to rain too.” The mother out of sheer happiness broke out into uncontrollable laughter that her dumb son could speak. When the Drubthop saw the extreme joy of the mother, he named the place “Gadrak Wang”. However, it is known today as Gyepjag Nang. The Lama built the Changchu Temple next to the house of the dumb boy. The original structure was washed away due to a flood in 1968 and the people built a new one at the site.
Finally, before reaching Dzongdrakha, the Lama reached a small plain where he encountered a female goat (nanny). The goat was the mount of the deity Nedag Dorji Lekpa, who was sent to receive him. On seeing the Lama approaching the goat let out drops of milk that fell onto a large stone slab. Using the milk as ink the Lama scribbled the six-syllable mantra of Chenrizig (the Bodhisattava of compassion) Om Ma Ni Padme Hung. Later the stone was placed inside a chorten as the main relic and the chorten came to be known as ‘Om Ma Ni Chorten’ which can be seen even today.
The Lama later realized that the goat was no other than the riding horse of Damchen Dorji Lekpa, the deity of Dzongdrakha, and considered it a promising sign to proceed toward the sacred cliff. On reaching Dzongdrakha the Lama Dupthob Gonpo Dorji began his meditation.
The Discovery of Relics
While Drubthop was meditating, Guru Rinpoche gave him a crystal sword. The sword became fixed on a rock that resembled a male donkey and a frog. The rock with the sword stuck on it rolled towards him. Inside the rock, the Lam came across a crystal Chorten measuring the length of an arrow, a Ringsel (body relic of Sangay Youelsum) of Buddha Kasyapa, and three Garuda eggs. Two of the three eggs are claimed to have flown away.
Drubthop Gonpo Dorji then took the crystal chorten, the Ringsel, and the remaining egg in a sack and reached a valley and sought shelter in a farmer’s house. Knowing about the treasure in the sack, the locals claimed ownership of the relics. As a result, the valley acquired the name “Bangdey,” now known as “Bondey.”
Later he returned to Dzongdrakha and built a chorten on a cliff that resembled a lion. Inside the chorten, he placed the crystal chorten, the Ringsel, and the egg. This chorten is known as the Shel (Crystal) chorten. The chorten was later consecrated by Dubthob Thangtong Gyalpo on a visit to Dzongdrakha.
Description of Dzongdrakha Goenpa
Dzongdrakha Temple also known as Mini Taktsang, is a serene site above the Bondey village on the western side of the Paro Valley.
The first building you visit is the private manor house of Jongsarbu Lhakhang, founded in the 18th century by Drubthob Gonpo Dorji. Drubthop installed the treasures (egg-shaped relic of Sangay Youelsum and the crystal stupa) as a sacred monument inside it and named it Dzongdrakha Goenpa. The crystal stupa was given the name Chorten Karmogyel because it is said that the relic used to tremble on lucky days.
The main statue is of Sakyamuni in his princely Jowo form, flanked by the local protector Tsento Chen, and a tshomen (mermaid). Dorji Legpa is the deity of the Lhakhang, who protects the Lhakhang and the sacred monument inside it.
The Drubthop, who had spent all his life in this Lhakhang ultimately died there. Visit the cave where Drubthop Gyonpo Dorji has meditated.
Dzongdrakha Monastery
The Lama did not have any children but from his reincarnation, the lineage of the Dzongdra Chojie was founded. After the death of Drubthop, his reincarnation started the lineage of Dzongdra Chhoeje, and many Lhakhangs and monasteries were built in and around the place.
In the 14th century his reincarnation, Lam Neten Jangchub Zangpo built a temple dedicated to the Guru Padmasambhava. On the right side of the chorten is the temple of the three Buddhas built by the reincarnation Lama Phan Thog.
The Dzongdrakha monastery was built by Choejay Penjor, son of Choejay Dawa, the reincarnation of Drupthop Goenpo Dorje. The Dzongdrakha monastery houses four shrines devoted to Tara, Tsheringma (Goddess of Longevity), Guru Rinpoche, and the Buddha of the Future, Jowo Jampa (Maitreya).
To the left of the Chorten is the Tsheringma Lhakhang, the temple of the female Goddess Tashi Tsheringma (Goddess of Long Life). In the Tsheringma Lhakhang are the statues of Tsheringma and Lord Buddha.
Next to Tashi Tsheringma temple is the temple dedicated to Sangay Mithrukpa (Akshobya). Lam Rabten and Lam Phan Thog built this.
In Guru Lhakhang, the lama will open a small door behind the main statue to reveal part of the secret chorten, which is caged to keep it from flying away. The main relics of Dzongdrakha Lhakhang are an egg-shaped relic of Sangay Youelsum (karshapa) and a crystal stupa (Chorten) that is as long as an arrow. There is a statue of two Khandroms (Dakinis) and the statues of the eight manifestations of Guru Rimpoche.
To access the cave-like Droley Lhakhang, which houses the neighborhood protectors Doley and Shari Tsen, originally employed during local celebrations, climb the rickety log ladder behind the temple. It is customary for local parents who have recently given birth to a son to visit this temple to get a fortunate name for their child. The little Lhamey Lhakhang is the last structure.
Dzongdrakha Tshechu
Dzongdrakha monastery organizes a yearly Tshechu the day before and after the Paro Tshechu, held at Rinpung Dzong. The annual Dzongdrakha Tshechu Festival is performed from the 8th to the 10th days of the 2nd month. They also have a day-long festival on the 16th day of the 2nd month of the Bhutanese calendar.
Don’t miss the Wochubi Zhey dance, which was presented at the Dzongdrakha monastery’s initiation ceremony by the residents of Wochu hamlet. Wochubi Zhey is the only Zhey reportedly introduced in Bhutan before Zhabdrung’s arrival. On the last day of Tshechu, observe the distinctive dance of Berkor Cham.
Best Time to Visit Dzongdrakha Temple
Dzongdrakha Temple doesn’t require reservations to visit. Depending on your budget, numerous hotels are available close to Dzongdrakha Temple. Make sure to go when Dzongdrakha Lhakhang celebrates its yearly festival because the main gathering place transforms into the chorten of the previous Buddha, which is then opened so guests may receive blessings from the relic.
If you can’t trek to Tiger Nest, visit Dzongdrakha Goemba once, which is aesthetically just as stunning as Paro Taktsang.
You can contact Lopen Passang and Tashi of Dzongdrakha Goenpa at 17769781 and 17646843 respectively.
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