Gomphu Kora is a meditative cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated and subdued a demon called Myongkhapa, locally known as Sewang Nagpo. The sacred cave is located in Tongzhang Gewog of Trashiyangtse Dzongkhag at an altitude of 1200m above sea level.
The Gomphu Kora Ney is filled with sacred monuments. Pilgrims visit the holy site to circumambulate the giant rock cave where Guru Rimpoche meditated. The region is a blessed land with holy sites spanning the riverbanks from Tsergom in Jamkhar Gewog to Omba Ney and Gongza Ney under Tashiyangtse Dzongkhag.
How to Reach Gomphu Kora
From Trashigang, drive toward Doksum. Gomphu kora is near Doksum. Gomphu Kora is 23 kilometers from Trashigang. You can also reach Gomphu Kora from Tashi Yangtse. While on pilgrimage to Gongza Ney of Tashi Yangtse, walk along the riverside for 3-4 hours, and you will reach Gomphu Kora.
Sacred Relics to See at Gom Kora
- A meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche;
- Body impression of Guru on the rock;
- The thumbprint of Guru Rinpoche;
- A Tshebum, a life vase containing the water of immortality inside the rock;
- A footprint of a Dakini;
- Tanag Tinkar’s hoof;
- Garuda’s egg;
- Gom Kora Tshechu;
- A statue of Gyenyen Myongkhapa;
- The remaining iron chain of Thangthong Gyalpo from the Doksum bridge.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Gomphu Kora
The history of Gomphu Kora dates back to the 8th century AD. According to legend, when Guru Padmasambhava was propagating Buddhism in the Himalayas, an evil demon named Myongkhapa fled from Samye in Tibet. The evil came to where Gomphu Kora stands today along the present-day Kholongchhu and hid inside a rock. So, Guru Rinpoche came to Gomphu, meditated, and captured the demon hiding inside a rock as a snake by transforming himself into a garuda.
Tibetan Prince Lhasey Tsangma on arriving at Gomkora learnt that it is a sacred site of Guru Rinpoche. Later, many Buddhist masters also blessed Gomphu Kora. Terton Pema Lingpa also visited it in the 14th century. Other learned and accomplished masters and saints who visited this Gomkora include Guru Chhoewang and Ani Cheten Zangmo.
Why did Guru Rinpoche come to Gomphu Kora?
The reason for Guru Rinpoche to come to Gomkora is mentioned in the invocation prayer. The prayer says that Myongkhapa who was tamed several times escaped to Gomkora and Guru Rinpoche had to follow him to subdue him forever.
The Origin of Name, Gomphu Kora
There is a big boulder under which is a cave. Guru Rinpoche stayed in meditation (Gom) to subdue the evil Nyonkha. Later, many devotees came here for circumambulations (Kora). Thus, it came to be called Gomphu Kora, meaning Gomphu a ‘meditative cave’ and Kora a ‘circumambulation’, loosely translating to “Meditation Cave for Circumambulation” or circumambulation of Guru‘s meditation cave.
In another version, the people of Tawang, India call it Gom Bae. Gom means meditation and Bae means hidden. Guru Rinpoche meditated here and left many religious objects hidden, thus, the name Gom Bae. They consider it supremely holy and come down annually during the Gomkora festival to circumambulate along with hundreds of other devotees.
Also Read: The Origin of Gongza Ney
Description of Gomphu Kora
The main relic at the sacred site of Gomphu Kora is the black rock behind the temple where Guru Rinpoche meditated in a small cave at the base of this rock to subdue the evil spirit Sewang Nagpo.
The body impressions of Guru Rinpoche and his hat and the impression of a devil on the rock indicate the tussle between the Garuda (Guru Rinpoche) and the serpent (Myongkhapa).
There’s also the thumbprint of Guru Rinpoche that signifies the evil Myongkhapa’s undertaking to be the protector of the Buddha Dharma. It is also believed that Guru Rinpoche has hidden a Tshebum, a life vase containing the water of immortality inside the rock. Originally, the Guru had fetched it to grant immortality to King Trison Detsen in Tibet. However, the king died before receiving the blessed water, so the Guru stored it within the rock so future generations might benefit from it.
On auspicious occasions, the holy water slowly trickles from the rock. If it trickles out of the rock, pilgrims may be fortunate to have an opportunity to sip the Thruelchhu. The pathway around the cave includes a narrow, twisting passageway through which pilgrims crawl and wiggle to define their virtue and sin.
Gomphu Kora Temple
Gom Kora Lhakhang is built on a gentle slope overlooking the Drangme Chhu. It is believed that the temple is more than 360 years old. Relics and artwork are all from the original construction period inside the two-story temple. Lhasey Tsangma on arriving at Gomkora learnt that it is a sacred site of Guru Rimpoche. He wanted to construct a hermitage to stay in meditation and prayers. He asked his patrons if they could do that. They said jam (easy), so a hermitage was built, followed by the place’s name, Jamkhar. Since then, conducting rituals, prayers, prostrations, circumambulations, and festivals started. Gongkhar Gyal, the grandson of Lhasay Tsangma built a small temple in the 10th century A.D.
Terton Pema Lingpa also visited it in the 14th century and extended the temple. He discovered several hidden relics that Guru Rinpoche had hidden for future ages. Among these were an ancient amulet, a statue of the Buddha, and the footprints of the Guru’s horse.
Then, in the 15th century, Yongzin Nagi Wangchuk, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel’s grandfather, renovated the temple and painted murals on the temple’s walls. In the 17th century the 4th Desi Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye, almost at the same time as Tango Choying Dzong, enlarged and constructed the temple we see today. Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgay, while expanding the temple during his time installed a statue of Guru Rinpoche made of medicinal clay, a human-size 11-faced Chenrezig statue, and 11 other statues. Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgay also painted splendid murals.
Gomphu Kora New Lhakhang
Later, in the 17th century, Chogyal Minjur Tempa built a new temple to replace the previous one. It is said that Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck also enlarged and maintained it.
Later, the 16th Desi Druk Zhidar also installed the hand-rotating Lakor mani around the temple, engraving slates with images of different buddhas and mantras. This history is engraved on a slate catalog fixed on the elongated stupa, Mani Dangrim, and can be seen as we make rounds from right to left.
The sacred relics of Gom Kora Temple include the footprint of a Dakini, Tanag Tinkar’s hoof, garuda’s egg, and a statue of Gyenyen Myongkhapa, among many others in the Gom Kora Lhakhang. There is also the remaining iron chain of Thangthong Gyalpo from the Doksum Bridge.
Gom Kora, the circumambulation of the meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche
One of the central attractions of Gomphu Kora is the circumambulation of Guru Rinpoche’s meditation cave. The circumambulation is on the 10th day of the second Lunar month. Even a local song entices pilgrims to visit Gomphu Kora by saying, “Today is the time to visit Gomphu Kora because tomorrow may be too late.” Every year, people from all across eastern Bhutan converge upon the tiny valley, dressed in their finest, to participate in the festivities and reaffirm their connection to the past. They circumambulate the Goenpa throughout the night.
Also Read: Drakarpo Kora, a Circumambulation of Rock that Guru Rinpoche Broke and Took out an Evil Spirit
Gomphu Kora Tshechu
Gom Kora is also famous for the Gomphu Kora Tshechu, held from the 9th to the 11th day of the second month of the Bhutanese calendar. The three-day festival, which takes place in Trashiyangtse, attracts even the Dakpa tribe of Arunachal Pradesh, India.
Apart from usual activities such as socializing, mask dances, and selling local products, various religious “challenges” highlight the festival. One involves rounding up groups of nine men and women, who attempt to carry a large rock weighing 200 kilograms around the Zangdok Pelri boulder, using only the tips of their fingers. This strength test is believed to restore fertility for women unable to conceive and bring good fortune to all involved.
Another consists of entering the narrow passage within the boulder and squirming through to the other side. Those who can pull themselves through this channel created during Guru Rinpoche’s contest with Myongkhapa are said to have their spiritual defilements washed away.
Also Read: Rangtse Ney Tshechu
Best Time to Visit Gom Kora
Since Gomkora Tshechu attracts thousands of people from across the country and the neighboring countries, it’s always the best time to visit during such a festive season. For a wonderful time, visit during the time of the festival of circumambulation (Kora). However, you can visit anytime according to your convenience.
You can contact the site manager, Dzongpon Tenzin at 17552992. You can visit many major pilgrimage sites of Trashiyangtse with the Bhutan Pilgrimage Package.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Gomphu Kora important?
Gomphu Kora is important as the site was blessed by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century. It is also a significant circumambulation place. A local song advises devotees to visit the site, saying, “Go around Gomphu Kora today for tomorrow may be too late.” This emphasizes the importance of visiting the site while one can.
Who discovered Gomphu Kora Nye?
Gomphu Kora was sanctified by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century and discovered by Gongkhar Gyal, the grandson of Lhasay Tsangma in the 10th century.
What is Gomphu Kora Nye?
Gomphu Kora Nye is a sacred meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche for circumambulation.
What sacred relics are found in Gomphu Kora Nye?
- A meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche;
- Body impression of Guru on the rock;
- The thumbprint of Guru Rinpoche;
- A Tshebum, a life vase containing the water of immortality inside the rock;
- A footprint of a Dakini;
- Tanag Tinkar’s hoof;
- Garuda’s egg;
- Gom Kora Tshechu;
- A statue of Gyenyen Myongkhapa;
- The remaining iron chain of Thangthong Gyalpo from the Doksum bridge.
