Shugdra is one of Guru Rimpoche’s four cliffs (Dra-Zhi) located in the upper Choekhor valley of Bumthang at an elevation of 2680m. Choedrak in Chumey, Kunzangdrak, and Thowadrak in Tang Valley, are the other three cliffs in the Bumthang Dzongkhag of central Bhutan.
This sacred cliff, also known as the Chungchen Khading Dra (the cliff looks like a flying Garuda) or Chung Dra was blessed by Guru Rinpoche and concealed numerous treasures. Later, Terton Pema Lingpa is believed to have discovered many treasures from the cliff.
How to Reach Shugdra
The sacred Shuk Drak cliff is in Bumthang’s upper Chhoekor valley, 45 minutes via rough road above Thangbi Mani Lhakhang, and takes an hour and a half by foot from Thangbi through a forested trail. Shukdra is at a walking distance of 30 minutes from Kharsa Primary School.
Shugdrak Hike: The trek up to the temple is rather straightforward, and the view from the top is breathtaking. After passing Thangbi Goenpa, the trail begins. It is 2 kilometers from Thangbi and takes around an hour.
Sacred Relics to See at Shudrak Goenpa
- Meditation Cave of Guru Rinpoche;
- Handprint, Footprint, and Boot Print of Guru Rinpoche;
- Self-Arisen A (ཨ);
- Guru Rinpoche’s walking stick;
- Footprint and Holy Water of Khandro.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Shudrak
While Guru Rinpoche was giving teachings on Sanga Dorji Thekpa to King Sindhu Raja and his families, there lived an evil spirit named Sinpo Gajed who was torturing the people of the locality. Therefore, Guru and Khandro meditated in the cave of Drakmar Dorji Tsegpa, Vajra Piled Red Cave to gain the power to tame him. Guru transformed into the ferocious Wangda Padma Thoedthreng Throwo Rolpaiku and subdued all of them including their leader Sin Gyal Maha Raja Chhagja Zhi who was buried face-up with marks (shuel, ཤུལ) of guru’s footprints over it. Thus the site came to be called by name Shuel Drak, (cliff with marks- ཤུལ་བྲག). However, over the years it was mispronounced as Shudrak.
The sites of Shugdrak are further subdivided into three: Drakar Namkha Dzong at the upper end; Duedul Singye Dzong in the middle; and Chungchen khading Dzong at the foothills collectively known as Shudrak.
According to the biography of King Sindhu Raja called The Clear Mirror:
“(Guru Rinpoche) arrived at Shukdrak in the form of Blood Drinking Wrathful Padma, meditated on top of the cliff resembling a Kilaya and subdued all the hostile demons. He left imprints of his body, hand and foot on the rock, bound all the local guardian (spirits) through his powerful oaths and transformed them into dharma protectors.”
Many lamas chose Guru Rinpoche’s meditation cliff as a retreat site. Terton Pema Lingpa is said to have discovered many treasures from the cliff subsequently. However, it was made known only in the 19th century when Terton Rinchen Lingpa unveiled treasures from the sacred site.
Rigdzin Khamsum Yongdröl, the eighth Bhakha Tulku and close friend of Bhutan’s first monarch spent time in retreat here. After leaving Tibet for Bhutan in the early 1960s, the Tenth Bhakha Rinpoche also meditated there.
Description of Shuk Drak Goenpa
The Shuk Drak Goenpa is located in Bumthang’s upper Choekhor valley. There are many stories about how Shugdra got its name. Shugdra is derived from Shugposhing (Juniper tree), Guru Rinpoche’s walking stick, which he left at the cliff to benefit Sentient creatures. As a result, it’s known as Shug-Juniper Tree and Drag-Cliff. As Guru Rinpoche sat and meditated on the cliff, some people called it Zhugdrak. The most well-known name is Chungchen Khading Dra, the cliff resembling a huge flying Garuda. As a result, locals refer to it as Chung Dra. Some people even call it Shuel Dra, the last cliff of the four to be blessed by Guru Rinpoche.
Also Read: Dra Zhi, the Four Great Meditation Cliffs of Guru Rinpoche in Bumthang
The sacred place features a meditation cave, Guru Rinpoche’s handprint, footprint, and body print. It also has Khandro’s footprint and holy water.
Also Read: Drupchhu or Holy Waters in Bhutan: Beliefs and Benefits
The Shuk Drak Lhakhang was built in 1944. With statues and paintings originating from the end of the 19th century, the Shug-Dra monastery is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava. Pilgrims climb a series of staircases past a magnificent butter-lamp shrine to a rock-face chapel, where a monk can show the Guru Rinpoche’s stone footprint, handprint, and boot print.
A private family manages the sacred site.
Best Time to Visit Shudrak Goenpa
There is no perfect time for pilgrimage. Shuk Drak Goenpa is considered a year-round destination. You don’t need to visit the sacred sites at a specific time to seek blessings. However, to avoid monsoons, the best time of the year to travel is still considered Spring and Autumn. The spring and fall seasons last from March to May and September to November, respectively. This is the season of good weather, warm temperatures, and season of flowers.
If you go deep enough, the pilgrimage site can take up to two days. So, plan according to your time. You can contact the site manager, Aum Naley at 17617539.
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