Gomdra is one of the Four Great Cliffs of Guru Rinpoche entrusted to Phajo Drugom Zhigpo located under Paro Dzongkhag at an elevation of more than 2200 meters above sea level. Khandro Tashi Wangmo from Chang-Namka village extended the centuries-old Drupkhang into a small temple. Later, this meditation cave of Phajo was turned into a beautiful temple complex built by Prostration Man Chimi.
According to the biography of Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, Gomdrak is one of the four cliffs out of the twelve meditation places which consist of four Dzongs, four Cliffs, and four Caves entrusted to him by Guru Rimpoche. The other three cliffs are Thujidra in Thimphu, Tshechudra in Gasa, and Dechendrak in Wangdue Phodrang. It is said that anyone meditating in this place will achieve enlightenment in one’s life.
How to Reach Gomdra
The Gomdra temple is situated just above the Uma Resort in Paro. It is located at a hiking distance of about 30-40 minutes from the road point, and it is worth a visit with a spectacular view of the Paro Valley. Take the road that leads to the Tibetan Temple while driving along the side road from Paro Ta Dzong towards the village of Chhubjakha. Further down the road, one has to turn towards another side road which leads towards the remains of Chujag Dzong. From there on, it is a roughly twenty-minute walk to the temple.
Sacred Relics to See at Gom Drak
- The sleeping Buddha;
- A statue of Guru Rinpoche;
- Ten Caves;
- Six Chortens;
- Natural cliff of Dibu/Dorji;
- Ranjung Amithyus Buddha of long life;
- Guru Drakpo (Drakmar);
- Many other artifacts.
Also Read: Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan: His Visits to Bhutan and Sacred Sites
Historical Significance of Gomdra
The legend is that Guru Padmasambhava blessed the site in the 8th century. In the 11th century, the great Yogi Milarepa also blessed the Ney. Later in the late 12th century, while Phajo Drugom Zhigpo was at the sacred Khandro Pelphug, Guru Rinpoche appeared to him in a vision and said:
‘I am entrusting to you twelve of my meditation sites which consist of Four Dzongs or Fortresses, Four Draks or Cliffs, and Four Phugs or Caves. You have to plant the Victory Banner of Practice in all of these.’
Gom Dra is one of the Four Cliffs of Guru Rinpoche prophesied to Phajo Drugom Zhigpo. When Phajo Drugom Zhigpo meditated at the cliff, he experienced clear light day and night, “the enlightenment place.” He then named the village below Namka “everything is as clear as the sky” “or the sky of clear light, ultimate reality.“
Many important religious figures also blessed Gomdra Nye. Phajo’s four sons, Khandro Machi-LabDron and Pha-Dampa Sangay in the 13th century, Khuenkhen Longchen Rabjam in the 14th century while he was residing in Chujagkha Dzong (Chewaikha dzong), Ngawang Chogyal and Drukpa Kuenley in the 15th century, Ngagi Wangchuk in the 16th century, Dungsay Mipham Chogyal, Dungsay Mipham Tenpi Nima in the 17th century.
During Paro Rinpung Dzong construction the great Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal also paid a visit and blessed the Ney.
Description of Gomdrak
The remarkable figures of a Garuda, a Tiger, and a wish-fulfilling tree (Pagsam Joenshing) can be seen on a rock above the temple. The footprint, conch, dragon head, and Rangjung, or naturally occurring Chorten, are also visible. One can also notice the hood of a King Cobra above and close to the Sertho, or “Golden Cupola.”
The natural Bumpa Rangjung is located a little above, and above it are Namcha Reldri, also known as the “Wisdom Sword,” and the Rangjung Chorten. Kanjur and Tenjur volumes are slightly above the same. There is a Gyaltshen, or “Victory Banner,” over the entrance to the caves.
Above the Mani Dungkhor, there are three south- and west-facing caves. These have been designated as the Gateway to Heaven and Hell, the Dragon Cave, and the Tiger Cave. Known as the “Secret Dakini Cave,” or “Khandro Sangphu,” it is about 300 meters east of the main Drubkhang. The angry face of the Khandroma, or Dakini, and the snake-shaped rock formation—above which is the Lam’s walking stick—and several other Rangjung, or “naturally formed” sacred sites are located on the opposite side of the cave.
Just above the walkway, one can reach Lam Phajo Drugom Zhigpo‘s hallowed meditation cave before reaching the temple. When you get closer, you will pass through a cavern that is thought to purge you of your impurities; after that, you will pass by the location where a rosary bead string was made; a footprint of the Lam; the area where the Lam’s sons and daughters used to play; and finally, once you are inside the cave, you will arrive at the exact location where the Lam attained enlightenment.
A Tshe-Tor, a Mahaparinirvana Chorten or Stupa, and a Sleeping Buddha are above the cave’s base. There are scratch marks on a flat rock in front of the Sleeping Buddha that are thought to have been produced by various animals and birds. It is reported to have been a statement of their grief upon realizing Lam Phajo Drugom Zhigpo was going to leave them for paradise.
Scratches that resemble a snake trail are thought to have been left by the Phajo’s sons when they played with his Phurba, or “Ritual Dagger,” on the granite walls. Two elongated boulders, one shorter than the other and known as Amithyus or the Buddha of Long Life, are located approximately 10 meters east of the Sleeping Buddha (Dragmar). A stone platform around 100 meters below the cliff enhances the place’s spiritual potency. This platform is believed to be the throne from which the Phajo imparted teachings to the Khandromas.
Gomdra Drupkhang
Khandro Tashi Wangmo from Chang-Namka village extended the centuries-old Drupkhang into a small temple on the flank of a cliff overlooking the Paro Chang Namka village in homage to the great Lama Phajo Drugom Rinpoche. This small temple was now turned into a beautiful temple complex by Prostration Man Chimi. Currently, five nuns reside and meditate at the temple.
The main treasure of the temple is a two-and-a-half-foot-tall statue of the Guru Rinpoche. Legend has it that the statue belonged to Paro Rinpung Dzong. The statue was taken to the holy Gomdra to perform ceremonies. After that, they could not lift the statue from the place, and since then the statue has become the important Nangten of Gomdra Ney.
Since the temple is used as their meditating chamber, other visitors and pilgrims cannot access the temple.
Best Time to Visit Gomdra Nye
There is no such time as the best time to visit a holy site. A pilgrimage is possible even during the summer but is not recommended because the weather can be unpredictable and change without warning. The best season to visit Gomdra Ney is still considered Spring and Autumn. This is the season of good weather, warm temperatures, and season of flowers. You can also visit during winter if snow doesn’t hinder your pilgrimage experience. I would also recommend you avoid the monsoon season.
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